Drink In Life

If you’ve been following my series on Washington AVAs, such as my articles on WASHINGTON’S SMALL BUT MIGHTY AVA, WASHINGTON’S ROYAL AVA-ROYAL SLOPE, and WINE EXPLORATION IN THE LEWIS AND CLARK VALLEY AVA, you’ll know I’m systematically covering all of the state’s AVAs, chronologically from newest to oldest (pre-2021). However, I’m holding off on writing about the Lake Chelan AVA until I can revisit the region for further research. Instead, I’m jumping ahead to the Snipes Mountain AVA, which was designated as the state’s 10th AVA in February 2009.

Situated between the eastern town of Sunnyside and the western town of Granger in south-central Washington, the esteemed Snipes Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA) commands attention with its rich history and distinctive landscape. Named after the prominent landform that defines its boundaries, this AVA encompasses the Harrison Hill area to the east, characterized by similar soils and topography.

As a sub-appellation of the Yakima Valley, which in turn is nested within the broader Columbia Valley, the Snipes Mountain AVA holds a revered status in Washington’s wine industry. Celebrated for its historical significance and unique terroir, it lays claim to some of the oldest grapevine plantings in the state. Spanning approximately 4,145 acres, it stands as a testament to the adage that great things come in small packages, solidifying its reputation as a hidden gem within Washington’s vibrant wine landscape.

Elevated Ancient Stone Terrior

Spanning the seven-mile-long ridge of Snipes Mountain, this viticultural area boasts a geography shaped by its strategic location. Situated within the rain shadow cast by the Cascade Mountains, it experiences a warm and dry climate, essential for cultivating high-quality grapes. The steep slopes, facing both north and south, not only contribute to the picturesque landscape but also play a crucial role in grape cultivation. They facilitate the natural flow of cold air, mitigating the risk of frost damage, while offering diverse aspects that enhance the complexity of wines produced in the region.

While its geological formation resembles more of an anticline than a traditional mountain, its elevation and position within the Yakima fold belt make it a significant feature in the region. (The Yakima folds are notable anticlines and represent the principal tectonic structures in the hinterland of the northern Cascadia subduction zone). This geological prominence, akin to a solitary sentinel, casts a commanding shadow over the surrounding landscape, offering a unique microclimate that has proven ideal for viticulture.

In this arid, continental climate, irrigation becomes a vital component of grape cultivation, mirroring practices found across eastern Washington’s viticultural landscape. The combination of unique geography, elevation, and climate creates an environment where vinifera grapes thrive, resulting in wines of exceptional quality and character.

The geological story of Snipes Mountain is a captivating narrative of ancient forces and dramatic events that have left an indelible mark on its rugged terrain. As one explores this landscape, the remnants of bygone eras become tangible, with large cobblestones scattered across the earth, remnants of the once-mighty Columbia River that carved its path through the region. These stones serve as silent witnesses to the geological history that has shaped the mountain over millennia.

Embedded within this rocky substrate lies a layer of loess, a fine-grained sediment deposited by ancient winds that swept across the landscape, carrying particles from distant lands.

The geological composition of Snipes Mountain is a reflection of its unique history and geological events. Predominantly composed of Aridisol, the region is characterized by the Ellensburg Formation, a conglomerate of river-washed rocks and coarse sediment formed through tectonic uplift. This distinctive geological makeup distinguishes Snipes Mountain from its surroundings, with its soils bearing the imprint of ancient geological processes that have unfolded over millennia.

Extensive geological research conducted during the AVA petition process sheds light on the significance of Snipes Mountain’s geological heritage. A comparative analysis of soil series with the established Yakima Valley viticultural area underscores the unique geological events that have shaped the mountain’s soils. From the deposition of sediments by ancient floods to the arid, rocky soils that now define the landscape, Snipes Mountain’s geological diversity tells a story of resilience and adaptation in the face of geological upheaval.

The result? Wines crafted from these grapes exhibit heightened intensity and structure, showcasing the distinctive terroir of Snipes Mountain. This concentration of flavors, coupled with the inherent structure derived from the challenging growing conditions, result in wines of exceptional depth and complexity.

Snipes Mountain AVA boasts a diverse array of wine grape varietals, each thriving in its unique terroir. Among the red grape varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme, showcasing its bold flavors and robust structure. Merlot also finds a comfortable home in the AVA, contributing to elegant blends and producing wines with soft, velvety textures.

On the white grape side, Chardonnay stands out as a star performer, displaying a range of styles from crisp and refreshing to rich and creamy, depending on the winemaker’s preferences. Together, these diverse grape varietals along with over 30 other varietals, contribute to the vibrant tapestry of wines produced in the Snipes Mountain AVA, each expressing the unique characteristics of the region’s terroir with finesse and distinction.

Snipes Mountain’s Historic Significance in Washington

In the late 1850s, the picturesque expanse around what would eventually be named Snipes Mountain witnessed the establishment of a significant cattle operation by Ben Snipes, who erected a house at the mountain’s base. Fast forward to 1914, and a new era unfolded in the region’s narrative with the visionary endeavor of William Bridgman, a prominent figure who held the mayoral office in Sunnyside twice. Bridgman’s pioneering zeal led him to ascend Snipes Mountain, nestled in the heart of the Yakima Valley. His aspirations transcended mere agriculture, evident in the diverse assortment of European wine varietals flourishing on the slopes by 1917. Among them were Zinfandel, Semillon, Muscat of Alexandria, Thompson Seedless, Sauvignon Blanc, and Carignane, laying the foundation for what would eventually blossom into the renowned Upland Vineyard.

The story of Upland Estates Vineyards and Winery finds its genesis in Bridgman’s endeavors. In 1917, he commenced planting wine grapes on Snipes Mountain, and to this day, some of those vines continue to yield grapes utilized by the Newhouse family in their winemaking pursuits. Bridgman realized his vision with the opening of Upland Winery in 1934, making it the sole commercial winery in Eastern Washington at the time.

Determined to produce European style vinifera wines amidst a climate favoring sweet, fortified wines, Bridgman’s legacy extends to his influence on Walter Clore, a luminary in Washington’s wine scene. Clore redirected his research towards wine grapes under Bridgman’s guidance, earning him the moniker “father of Washington wine.” However, severe winters between 1949 and 1951 led Bridgman to pivot towards sweet, fortified wines, until the winery’s eventual closure in 1972, shortly after Bridgman’s passing.

The Newhouse family, who still farm Snipes Mountain today, has been intertwined with the grape-growing landscape since 1968 when Alfred Newhouse, driven by a profound respect for the land and a love for viticulture, planted the family’s inaugural wine grapes atop the rugged terrain. With an acute awareness of the region’s potential, Alfred embarked on this agricultural journey, laying the foundation for a remarkable legacy in Washington’s wine industry. This pivotal moment marked the genesis of the Newhouse family’s enduring bond with Snipes Mountain, heralding decades of devoted stewardship in producing exceptional wines that echo the terroir’s distinctive essence and the family’s steadfast dedication to excellence.

Todd Newhouse, the son of Alfred Newhouse, finds deep resonance in the saga of William B. Bridgman, whose pioneering spirit ignited the vinicultural destiny of Washington. Today, Todd stands as a guardian of the family’s esteemed legacy, honoring tradition while tirelessly cultivating over 30 grape varietals on Snipes Mountain. His partnership with Joan Davenport bore fruit with Snipes Mountain’s formal recognition as an American Viticultural Area in 2009, thereby affirming its enduring significance in the annals of Washington’s viticultural history.

An Interview with Todd Newhouse

Exploring the nuanced contours of the Snipes Mountain AVA would not be complete without engaging in dialogue with Todd Newhouse, a pivotal figure in championing this distinctive viticultural region. As Chairman of the Wine Grape Growers of America and scion of a family deeply entrenched in the area’s grape-growing legacy, Todd offers invaluable insights into the AVA’s historical tapestry, its evolution, and its enduring significance in Washington’s esteemed winemaking narrative.

“In 1968 my grandfather decided he wanted to try wine grapes. In 1972 the Bridgman family put Upland Vineyards and Winery up for sale. My grandfather bought all of the vineyards on Snipes Mountain but not the winery. The Newhouse brothers split the main farm up in 1982 but my father and grandfather decided to stay mainly on Snipes Mountain and continued to increase their wine grape acreage. Over time, all of Bridgman’s original vines were replaced by varieties that were more in vogue and virus free. The oldest vines we currently have are the 1962 Harrison Hill Cabernet. The oldest vines we have that were planted by our family are Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Morio Muscat; all planted in 1979.”

Intrigued by the Harrison Hill Vineyard that is also part of the Snipes Mountain AVA, I asked Todd if he could share some of the history about this historic vineyard.

“WB Bridgman first planted grapes (non-vinifera) on the Harrison Hill in 1914. By 1917 he had planted some vinifera on Harrison Hill as well as Snipes Mountain proper (Snipes and Harrison are part of the same formation but are separated by a low point which is where I-82 now sits and splits the two). Harrison Hill seemed to have changed varieties several times over the years until the early 60’s when Bridgman sold it to Associated Vintners, which eventually became Columbia Winery. As soon as they bought it, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the site, which became Washington’s second Cabernet planting.”

“In 1991, the Newhouse family bought the ground and contracted the fruit to DeLille Cellars, who subsequently started the Harrison Hill label. We took out some of the Cabernet in order to plant Merlot and Cabernet Franc to complete the Bordeaux blend. A portion of the original Cabernet vines are still farmed today.”

Since becoming an AVA in 2009, Snipes Mountain has not changed much since it was established. There are still no wineries within the boundaries of Snipes Mountain and the wine grape acreage has only increased from 800 to 850 with only four growers farming the AVA. With this in mind I asked Todd what he was most excited about when it comes to the future of the Snipes Mountain AVA.

In my next question to Todd, I highlighted the pivotal role of grape growers like him propelling the Washington Wine Industry to its current standing as the second largest in wine production and sales in the U.S. I asked him to share his observations on the positive developments or key factors he has noticed in the evolution of Washington State wine over the years, distinct from the AVA.

“One key factor is that we tend to do a lot of varieties very well. Whereas Washington has a lot of Riesling, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah vines in the ground, we don’t have one particular variety that we are known for. I think this is a big plus as it gives our region more diversity: if you visit Washington State and have a favorite wine, then you’re almost guaranteed to find a great bottle of that favorite wine. It allows our region to compete globally with every other region at every level.”

As Todd also serves as the Chairman of the Wine Grape Growers of America, I inquired about his role in this esteemed position and requested insights into his responsibilities and duties as Chairman.

“This organization is in the midst of a sort of transitional period. We used to be somewhat tied to the Wine America organization but recently the two are operating more independently and WGA is figuring out how best to do that. A national organization such as this one is challenging because whereas all states have wineries (and most all grow wine grapes), there are many different levels and every state has their own needs. This makes it difficult to get all states on board for specific issues. How to structure dues can also be challenging because of each state’s impact on our national industry.’‘

”As far as acreage goes, there is California, Washington, Oregon and New York, and then there is everybody else. Although the board is always a representation of various states, major and minor, California and Washington tend to drive the organization from a content and organizational point of view. The main focus of the organization is lobbying in Washington DC and making sure grape growers around the country have a voice nationally when it comes to regulatory issues and policy making. My job as chairman, or of any officer of the board, is to assist the executive director in planning national meetings, prioritizing national issues and overseeing the finances of the organization.”

Inquisitive about his experiences as a grape grower, I asked Todd if he had a favorite grape varietal that he particularly enjoyed cultivating.

“Grenache. Our site does extremely well with Grenache, and I feel that I have a really good handle on how to grow it. To make a great Grenache, it takes more vineyard passes throughout the growing season than any other variety we grow. Grenache loves to naturally set a lot of fruit so learning how and when to manage that load is half the challenge. The other half of the challenge is managing the canopy and fruit color. Timing is everything with Grenache and if you get an early pass wrong then it tends to domino throughout the growing season and be difficult to get back on track. I also love to drink Grenache. To me there are five types of wine: Red, White, Rose’, Sparkling, and Grenache! Technically it would be in the Red category but I think it drinks and pairs with food so differently than any other red that it deserves its own category.”

I went on to ask about his favorite varietal to drink and why?

“Very tough question but I would have to say Cabernet Franc. You don’t find many straight Franc’s and you find even less well-made Franc’s but when you do find one, it’s a real treat. More of a medium bodied wine than it’s big brother Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc pairs well with both beef and pork and most importantly, mushrooms! A good franc will have the benefits of being fruit forward with subtle tannins while maintaining a little bit of the variety’s herbaceousness. However, the main problem with a bad Franc is that it can be too veggie tasting or over-extracted. It can be a challenging variety to grow and a difficult wine to make which makes it all the more exciting when you find a good bottle.”

My time spent driving around the Snipes Mountain AVA and conversing with Todd Newhouse was undoubtedly one of the most enriching experiences I’ve had while researching Washington’s AVAs. In just a few short hours, Todd shared a wealth of knowledge, delving into the area’s rich history, his family’s deep-rooted connection to viticulture, and the intricacies of grape growing in the region. His insights into the Washington Wine Industry were invaluable, but what truly stood out was his passion for the craft and his genuine enthusiasm for sharing it with others.

Todd’s role as Chairman for the Wine Grape Growers of America speaks volumes about his expertise and influence in the realm of winemaking, not only within Washington but across the United States. His deep understanding of the industry and his pulse on the wines being produced nationwide further underscored the significance of the Snipes Mountain AVA within the broader context of American viticulture.

Snipes Mountain AVA holds a significant place in the history of Washington wine. Its geological formations, deeply rooted viticultural traditions, and ongoing cultivation by families like the Newhouses underscore its importance in the region’s winemaking landscape. Renowned for its unique terroir, including its elevation, diverse soils, and favorable climate, Snipes Mountain consistently yields wines of exceptional quality. Beyond its role in wine production, the AVA represents a legacy of innovation, resilience, and dedication within Washington’s winemaking community. With each bottle, consumers taste not only the region’s distinct flavors but also the craftsmanship and heritage that have shaped its evolution. Snipes Mountain AVA stands as a symbol of excellence and a vital part of Washington’s esteemed winemaking history.

Thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Washington Wines or the Washington AVAs. Cheers Everyone!

If you want to learn more about Washington state wine history you can read my articles; WASHINGTON WINE: THE SHAPING OF A REGION, WASHINGTON WINE: THE EARLY YEARS and WASHINGTON WINE: THE EVOLUTION OF THE INDUSTRY.

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