Drink In Life

Navigating Abruzzo’s Wine Regions

Posted on March 27, 2024 by drinkinlife

In my previous article, I introduced the region of Abruzzo by delving into its rich winemaking heritage and diverse terroir. Now, it’s time to take a journey through Abruzzo’s wine regions and explore the esteemed DOC and DOCG designations that define the region’s landscape. I’ll share my experiences attending the “Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo” earlier this month, which offered insights into the latest vintages and trends emerging from this celebrated wine.

Exploring Abruzzo’s Wine Classifications

Abruzzo boasts four region-level denominations—Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC—each with its own distinct characteristics and appellations. These denominations have expanded to include four subzones, primarily based on the provinces of Abruzzo. These subzones, Colline Pescara, Colline Teramane, Terre di Chieti, and Terre Aquilane, highlight the diverse terroirs and microclimates within the region.

Notably, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC’s fourth new subzone, exclusive to the commune of San Martino sulla Marrucina, adds depth to the appellation’s identity. To bear the subzone name on the label, wines must originate entirely from grapes grown within the designated area.

The introduction of Superiore and Riserva levels exclusively for subzone-labeled wines has elevated the quality and prestige of Abruzzo’s offerings. These designations, indicate higher minimum alcohol levels and longer aging requirements. While some changes in aging requirements and release dates were implemented, the most notable modifications occurred within the Abruzzo DOC denomination. Here, the minimum percentages of Trebbiano and Montepulciano were raised to 85%, effectively positioning these wines as direct competitors of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, despite not being able to name the variety on the label. Additionally, the introduction of a new Rosato wine with 85% Montepulciano mirrors the offerings of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC.

Abruzzo DOC’s decision to allow varietally labeled wines, including Cococciola, Malvasia, Montonico Bianco, Passerina, or Pecorino, further demonstrate their commitment to diversity. Wines labeled as “Passerina d’Abruzzo DOC” or similar give the impression of being from a separate denomination altogether, potentially increasing their market appeal. Though these varietal wines currently may not be produced in large quantities, their introduction suggests a strategic move towards establishing them as distinct denominations in the future.

A Closer Look at the Colline Teramane DOCG

The history of Colline Teramane, located in the province of Teramo in Abruzzo, is deeply intertwined with the region’s rich winemaking heritage. Dating back centuries, the area has been revered for its fertile soils, favorable microclimate, and ideal grape-growing conditions. Historians trace the origins of winemaking in Colline Teramane to ancient Roman times, where viticulture flourished under the influence of Roman colonization and trade routes. Throughout the Medieval and Renaissance periods, winemaking in the region continued to thrive, with local producers honing their craft and cultivating indigenous grape varieties. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century that Colline Teramane began to gain recognition for its exceptional Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines.

One of the most notable transformations in Colline Teramane has been the establishment of its own DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designation in 2003. This prestigious recognition underscores the exceptional quality and distinctiveness of the wines produced within its boundaries. As a DOCG, Colline Teramane adheres to stringent regulations governing grape cultivation, winemaking practices, and aging requirements, ensuring that only the wines bear its esteemed label.

In addition to achieving DOCG status, Colline Teramane has experienced advancements in viticultural techniques and sustainability practices. Winemakers have embraced modern technologies and eco-friendly initiatives to enhance grape quality and preserve the natural beauty of the terroir. From precision viticulture to organic farming methods, these efforts have contributed to the continued success and longevity of Colline Teramane as a distinguished wine-producing region.

From the Consorzio Tutela Vini Colline Teramane DOCG Website.

“Wine produced from the Montepulciano grape and Abruzzo’s only controlled and guaranteed designation of origin. The relevant area includes a wide range of coastal and inland hills in the province of Teramo, which reaches as far as the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga foothills to the centre-north. The Consorzio di Tutela is an organization whose purpose is to safeguard and improve the quality of this wine, and for this reason applies a strict production protocol that requires yield to be lower than ninety quintals per hectare, with no overhead training system to be used for new vine installations. Plant density must be no less than 3,300 per hectare, and vinification and bottling must take place in the production district. The wine may reach the market no sooner than one year for the standard version and three years for the Riserva.”

The Expressions of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is a wine often mistaken for its namesake, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, hailing from the renowned Tuscan region. While both wines share the name “Montepulciano,” their origins and grape varietals are distinctly different. In the 19th century, there was speculation that Sangiovese, the grape used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Montepulciano grapes might be related. However, subsequent research debunked this theory, revealing it to be merely a coincidence that both Tuscany and Abruzzo utilize the name “Montepulciano.” Interestingly, Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape may have derived its name from the famous Renaissance town, adding a layer of historical intrigue to its identity. Despite the shared name, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are distinct wines, each with its own unique legacy and flavor profile.

Photo courtesy of the Consorzio Colline Teramane

Montepulciano, a thick-skinned red grape, is predominantly cultivated in central Italy, notably in the Abruzzo region. Its cultivation extends beyond Italy’s borders, with plantings in diverse locales such as Molise, Marche, Lazio, and Puglia, as well as overseas in Australia, New Zealand, and select regions of the United States, including California and Texas. Famed for its resilient demeanor, abundant yields, and versatile qualities, the Montepulciano grape produces wines renowned for their deep hues and concentrated flavors. Despite its sturdy composition, the grape’s generous juice-to-skin ratio results in wines with balanced tannins, providing winemakers with the flexibility to employ diverse techniques such as prolonged maceration and oak maturation to enrich depth and framework.

Several wine styles are produced from Montepulciano grapes, that adhere to Italian wine DOC regulations. Prominent among these are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, renowned for its blend of at least 85% Montepulciano grapes and up to 15% Sangiovese, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG, requiring a minimum of 90% Montepulciano grapes. Additionally, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo designation offers a deeply hued rosé variant, providing a versatile option for wine enthusiasts.

Vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel the wine is rich, yet fresh and fruity on the palate. Aged in oak, Montepulciano wines typically exhibit medium-bodied profiles characterized by powerful tannins, vibrant high acidity, and luscious black fruit flavors such as wild cherry, black currant and plum.

Variations in aromas and taste may include hints of leather, tobacco, dried and fresh herbs such as oregano or thyme, with oak-aged expressions offering pronounced fruit notes alongside nuances of chocolate along with warm and peppery spices. Modern Montepulciano wines, especially premium Riserva renditions, showcase a contemporary evolution marked by deep color, rich and robust structure, and layers of flavor, underscoring the grape’s adaptability and enduring appeal in the world of winemaking. Montepulciano wines typically boast a moderate alcohol content ranging from 11.5% to 13.5% ABV.

Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2024

A part of our press trip to Abruzzo included an invitation to the “Anteprima” preview event for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and Colline Teramane DOCG, dubbed the “Abruzzo Wine Experience,” which took place at Borgo Spoltino on March 1, 2024. Attendees to this distinguished event included journalists and writers from Italy and around the globe.

The event kicked off with Enrico Cerulli Irelli, president of the Colline Teramane Consortium, recognizing the achievements of the organization, now integrated into the larger Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines. Cerulli Irelli stressed that Colline Teramane represents more than a mere geographical indication for Montepulciano grapes; it embodies a landscape molded by the convergence of individuals, customs, the land and historical narratives, have all shaped viticulture and enriched the unique character of its wines.

Cerulli Irelli went on to add, “Today, this excellence is unequivocally recognized as a beacon of quality within the realm of Abruzzo wines on the global stage.”

(Photo; Enrico Cerulli Irelli on the left and Franco D’Eusanio on the right)

Franco D’Eusanio, vice president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo also shared the following: The current trend is leaning toward seeking out wines that are more approachable and easier to drink, and this trend extends to Montepulciano DOC wines as well. With the evolving landscape, it becomes crucial to distinguish the offerings of different producers in a clear manner, enabling consumers to understand wines from this region vary significantly, even within the same denomination. The Abruzzo model exemplifies this concept, highlighting distinct and characterful terroirs where a grape like Montepulciano, in its various clones, showcases diverse expressions.

D’Eusanio went on to explain that the aim was to depart from the usual grand tasting format by dedicating a moment solely to the flagship wine of the region. By advancing the event, they provide the wineries with the platform to showcase their products, ensuring that both consumers and buyers recognize the breadth of choices available.

Photo of D’Eusanio courtesy of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo

Our morning kicked off with an optional ‘blind tasting’ showcasing Colline Teramane DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, a fantastic opportunity I eagerly awaited. Prior to embarking on this journey to Abruzzo, my encounters with these wines had been limited, heightening my anticipation for the tasting session. Twenty-Seven Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG wines from different producers were sampled in the ‘blind tasting, twelve of them Riservas and the vintages ranged from the 2018 to the 2022.

The experience provided valuable insights without the influence of labels or preconceptions, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the essence of each wine. What impressed me the most was the wide range of styles showcased at the event, a testament to the innovative approach and steadfast commitment of Abruzzo’s winemaking community. From robust and bold expressions to graceful and sophisticated ones, there was a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo suitable for every taste and occasion.

Beyond the sensory exploration, there was a profound sense of appreciation in attending such a prestigious gathering and this experience left a lasting impression on my journey as a wine enthusiast and wine writer.

Following a brief lunch interlude, participants reconvened at the tasting tables for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Grand Tasting session, presenting a curated selection of 69 wines for sampling. The wines were categorized into two groups: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, showcasing vintages from 2020 to 2022, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, exclusively featuring 2020 vintages, both categories were sourced from different Zones and Subzones.

At each table, sommeliers were on hand to pour the requested wines from the list. Our group of English-speaking Americans and Canadians chose to be led through the tasting experience by our assigned sommelier. He skillfully offered insights into the producers and the distinct qualities of the wines he curated for our sampling, enhancing our overall appreciation of the selections.

During the tasting session, I began to draw comparisons between Montepulciano and two renowned varietals, Merlot and Chianti, both of which I have always appreciated. This exploration piqued my curiosity further regarding the distinct characteristics of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As I continued to delve into these wines, their unique traits became more apparent, providing insight into the region’s esteemed winemaking heritage and unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional quality wines.

Sampling a multitude of wines within a single day can pose a challenge in pinpointing favorites. Nevertheless, amidst the Grand Tasting, certain wines distinctly captured my attention and left a lasting impression.

These wines included the 2020 Tenuta De Melis Bardasce, 2020 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2020 Fontefico Cocca di Casa, 2022 Cantina Tollo Insetti Bio, and 2020 Barba i Vasari Old Wines. Each of these selections stood out for their distinctiveness, truly embodying the essence of the Abruzzo region.

In Closing….

The wines from the Abruzzo region serve as eloquent representatives, highlighting Abruzzo’s abundant viticultural heritage and its talent for crafting wines of exceptional quality and distinct character. Combining tradition, innovation, and unmatched hospitality, the event epitomizes the essence of Abruzzo winemaking, reaffirming the region’s reputation as a premier destination for wine enthusiasts worldwide.

There is still more to come about Abruzzo including the next article in my series just in time for Spring Rosé season , Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo-Rosé Abruzzo Style.

As always, thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Abruzzo or this series. Cheers!

All images and content © copyrighted by Drink In Nature Photography and Drink In Life Blog.

Exploring One of Italy’s Lesser Known Wine Regions, Abruzzo

Posted on March 22, 2024 by drinkinlife

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Cradled along the Adriatic coast with the rugged Apennine Mountains as its dramatic backdrop, the picturesque region of Abruzzo beckons travelers with its enchanting landscapes and rich winemaking heritage. Here, amidst the embrace of the Adriatic Sea, lies one of Italy’s best-kept secrets for wine enthusiasts seeking an authentic and immersive travel experience.

During my most recent press trip, I embarked on an educational journey to the vibrant Abruzzo region and I’m eager to share the treasures and insights garnered from this extraordinary experience. In a series of articles, I will delve into the essence of Abruzzo, beginning with an introductory exploration of this hidden gem within the realm of Italian wine.

“Abruzzo? Where’s that?”

Situated between the regions of Marche to the north and Molise to the south, Abruzzo’s geographical location contributes to its unique terroir, characterized by a harmonious blend of maritime influences and mountainous terrain. Located approximately 100 miles (160 kilometers) east of Rome, Abruzzo offers a captivating escape from the bustling capital, inviting travelers to explore its charming villages, rolling hills and vineyards, as well as its renowned culinary delights.

Verdant valleys provide a dramatic backdrop to the vineyards and olive groves that dot the Abruzzo landscape.

At the heart of Abruzzo’s natural beauty lies the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park, a pristine wilderness encompassing some of the region’s most iconic landmarks. The park is home to the Gran Sasso massif and Corno Grande the highest peak in the Apennines which sits above Europe’s southern-most glacier. Visitors can admire the dramatic rock formations of the Campo Imperatore plateau, often referred to as the “Little Tibet of Italy.” One can also explore miles of hiking trails that wind through alpine meadows, past crystal-clear lakes, and beneath towering peaks, offering breathtaking views at every turn.

Abruzzo’s proximity to the rugged peaks of the Apennine Mountains adds to its unparalleled charm.

Travelers can embark on scenic drives through winding mountain roads, stopping at delightful hilltop villages along the way to sample local wines and cuisine.

Equally as enchanting, the Adriatic Sea beckons with its azure waters and sun-kissed beaches, offering a tranquil respite from the inland adventures.

From bustling seaside resorts to secluded coves, Abruzzo’s coastline offers endless opportunities for relaxation and exploration.

In addition to its natural beauty, Abruzzo is steeped in history and culture, with a wealth of archaeological sites, medieval castles, and ancient ruins waiting to be discovered.

Visitors can delve into the region’s rich heritage by exploring historic towns such as L’Aquila, Sulmona, and Chieti, each offering a glimpse into Abruzzo’s storied past.

The aqueduct, found in the center of Sulmona dates back to 1256.

The Crucial Role of Location in Abruzzo’s Grape, Olive, and Agricultural Bounty

For wine enthusiasts, Abruzzo’s location has an additional advantage, as it benefits from a temperate climate ideal for grape, olive cultivation as well as other agricultural products for which the region is known. Abruzzo thrives in producing an abundance of fruits, vegetables, and grains. Among these are hearty grains like wheat and barley, aromatic herbs such as rosemary and oregano, as well as a variety of fruits including figs, apples, and cherries.

Beneath the surface lies a rich tapestry of geological diversity, shaped by millennia of geological processes.

Limestone formations, remnants of ancient sea beds, impart minerality and structure to the soils, while clay deposits retain moisture, while the sandy soils, prevalent in coastal areas, offer excellent drainage.

The Apennine Mountains standing as the guardians of Abruzzo, rising majestically to the west, provide a natural barrier against harsh weather conditions, shielding the vineyards, groves and farmland from extreme temperatures and precipitation. The mountains also influence the region’s climate, creating a unique interplay of warm days and cool nights promoting slow, even ripening for grapes.

When it comes to grape growing, the mountains also contribute to the formation of microclimates within Abruzzo, with each valley and slope boasting its own distinct set of environmental conditions. From the cool mountain breezes that sweep down into the valleys to the gentle sea breezes that caress the coastline, Abruzzo’s microclimates offer winemakers a palette of possibilities, allowing them to craft wines reflecting the nuances of their terroir.

In essence, Abruzzo’s geography and geology form the foundation of its winemaking prowess, providing the perfect canvas upon which nature and human ingenuity collaborate to create wines of unparalleled quality and distinction.

Abruzzo: The History and Culture

Steeped in history, Abruzzo often referred to as the “green heart of Italy,” bears the marks of ancient civilizations, from the Samnites to the Romans and beyond. Its rich cultural heritage is reflected in its charming hilltop villages, medieval castles, and centuries-old vineyards. Traditional festivals and celebrations pay homage to Abruzzo’s agricultural roots, with wine playing a central role in local customs and traditions.

During the Roman era, Abruzzo flourished as an important agricultural and commercial center. Roman roads crisscrossed the landscape, connecting cities and facilitating trade. The remains of ancient Roman villas, temples, and amphitheaters dot the countryside, serving as reminders of Abruzzo’s historic narrative.

Wine has long been an integral part of Abruzzo’s cultural identity, with a winemaking tradition that spans centuries. Vineyards have been cultivated in the region since ancient times, producing wines of exceptional quality and character. Traditional winemaking techniques have been passed down through generations, preserving Abruzzo’s heritage for future generations to enjoy.

Today, Abruzzo’s wineries continue to honor this legacy, crafting wines that reflect the region’s unique terroir and time-honored traditions.

Abruzzo’s history and culture are deeply intertwined with its landscape, its people, and its wines. From ancient civilizations to medieval fortresses and lively festivals, Abruzzo invites travelers to embark on a journey through time, where past and present converge in a harmonious celebration of tradition and heritage.

Abruzzo’s Winemaking History

Viticulture has flourished in Abruzzo since ancient times, with grape cultivation and wine production playing a pivotal role in its cultural and economic fabric. Winemaking in the region can be traced back to the Etruscans and the ancient Samnites who inhabited the region as early as the 9th century BC. These early settlers recognized the potential of Abruzzo’s fertile soils and favorable climate for grape cultivation, laying the groundwork for what would become a thriving winemaking tradition. Over the centuries, successive civilizations, including the Romans and the Lombards, further contributed to the development and expansion of viticulture in Abruzzo, refining winemaking techniques and introducing new grape varieties to the region.

During the Middle Ages, monasteries played a central role in preserving and advancing winemaking knowledge in Abruzzo. Monastic orders such as the Benedictines and the Cistercians meticulously tended vineyards and produced wines for religious ceremonies, while also experimenting with different grape varieties and vinification methods. The Renaissance period saw a resurgence of interest in winemaking in Abruzzo, with noble families and wealthy landowners establishing vineyards and producing wines for local consumption and export.

Today, Abruzzo’s winemaking industry continues to innovate and evolve, embracing modern techniques while honoring time-honored traditions. Previously, small-scale farmers in Abruzzo supplied their grapes to cooperatives and large-scale producers, with only a handful of esteemed estates showcasing the region’s potential through their exceptional wines. However, the landscape began to shift in the 1980s and ’90s, as ambitious producers entered the scene.

During the past decade there has been a remarkable transformation in Abruzzo’s viticultural landscape, spearheaded by a new wave of visionary vintners and growers committed to elevating the region’s winemaking prowess. Embracing sustainable farming practices and employing meticulous techniques in vinification, these trailblazers have infused Abruzzo’s wine scene with an electrifying energy, redefining its reputation on both the national and international stage.

The Wines of Abruzzo

Thriving in the heart of Abruzzo is the region’s most familiar varietal, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a red wine whose journey from obscurity to acclaim is as fascinating as it is paradoxical. For decades, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo quietly adorned tables as a humble and inexpensive option, its allure lying in its affordability rather than its quality. Yet, despite its historical anonymity, this wine managed to capture the hearts of many with its reliable palatability, a lasting testament to its inherent charm.

Among the esteemed appellations of Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo stand out as shining examples of winemaking in the region.

A selection of wines tasted at Azienda Agricola Faraone, just outside of the seaside town of Giulianova.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, crafted primarily from the indigenous Montepulciano grape variety, yields robust and full-bodied red wines known for their rich fruit flavors and smooth tannins. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, on the other hand, showcases the region’s mastery of white winemaking, producing crisp and aromatic wines that exude freshness and vitality.

In addition to Montepulciano and Trebbiano, Abruzzo boasts an array of other indigenous and international grape varietals that contribute to its diverse vinous landscape. Pecorino, a white grape variety indigenous to Abruzzo, is gaining recognition for its elegant and aromatic wines characterized by notes of citrus, stone fruit, and floral nuances.

Pecorino: Orlandi Contucci Ponno

The Passerina grape variety thrives in Abruzzo’s Mediterranean climate, where warm temperatures and cooling sea breezes create optimal conditions for grape ripening. Revered for its ability to yield crisp and aromatic white wines, Passerina showcases a unique profile characterized by notes of citrus, green apple, and delicate floral aromas. With its refreshing acidity and vibrant fruit flavors, Passerina wines offer a delightful expression of Abruzzo’s terroir, making them a favorite among both local enthusiasts and international connoisseurs alike.

Another indigenous gem is the Cococciola grape, yielding crisp and lively white wines with a delightful acidity and hints of floral and herbal nuances. Internationally renowned grape varietals also find a place in Abruzzo’s vineyards, adding depth and diversity to its wine portfolio. Chardonnay, for instance, has adapted well to Abruzzo’s terroir, producing full-bodied and complex white wines with flavors of ripe orchard fruits, buttery notes, and a balanced acidity. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc are among the red grape varieties cultivated in Abruzzo, contributing to the region’s portfolio of robust and structured wines.

Abruzzo’s vinous renaissance extends beyond its acclaimed reds and whites; the region’s rosé wines, particularly its Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, captivate with their unique character and finesse. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, named for its cherry-red color (“Cerasuolo” translates to “cherry” in Italian), offers a delightful balance of fruitiness and acidity, making it a versatile companion for a variety of dishes.

Additionally, even new winemakers in Abruzzo are embracing traditional methods and indigenous grape varieties, to craft sparkling wines that delight with their finesse and charm. These effervescent delights showcase the region’s commitment to quality and innovation, offering a refreshing alternative to its more traditional counterparts. From crisp and vibrant Prosecco-style sparklers to elegant Metodo Classico renditions, Abruzzo’s sparkling wines shine with the region’s diversity, vigorous activity and progress.

As Abruzzo continues to evolve as a dynamic wine-producing region, its diverse grape varietals play a vital role in shaping its identity and contributing to a growing reputation as a source of high-quality and distinctive wines on the global stage. Despite the newfound acclaim however, Abruzzo still remains a bastion of affordability, with most wines offering exceptional value for their quality.

More to Come About Abruzzo…

In the next segment of my Abruzzo series, I will be delving deeper into the prestigious DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designations that define the region’s winemaking landscape. I will also share highlights from the February 2024 “Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo,” an esteemed event that showcases the latest vintages and trends in Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines. Subsequently, I will share another article on Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a wine that captured my heart, as well as highlighting a few wines I discovered on my journey through Abruzzo. Until then you can read more about the regions and wines of Abruzzo on the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo Website.

Sunrise over the Adriatic Sea

Thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Abruzzo, I’d also love to hear your thoughts if you have had the opportunity to travel there.