Wine, Dine, and Unwind: Part Three of My Finger Lakes Wine Adventure

There are places that seem content to let you pass through them, offering a pleasant visit before sending you on your way. And then there are places, like New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, that invite you to slow your pace, linger a little longer, and before you quite realize it, begin revealing themselves one quiet moment at a time.

When I first arrived, I looked around and, almost without realizing it, thought, “This place has some stories to tell.”

Not the ones polished and printed or handed to you in a brochure. They are carried in the contours of vineyard-covered hills, in the scent of a Pinot Noir lingering in an empty glass, and in the changing light that dances across the lakes from dawn until dusk. They reveal themselves at their own tempo, rewarding those willing to pause just a little longer.

Perhaps that’s what Isak Dinesen was describing in Out of Africa when she wrote, “The great landscapes create themselves, long splendid views, rich and delicate colors, roads, houses, which he has never seen or heard of…” Some places aren’t meant to be explained so much as experienced, and the Finger Lakes became one of those places for me.

This is the final article from my journey through New York’s Finger Lakes (a little delayed, my apologies). If you missed the first three, you’ll find them linked below. This final chapter feels different. It carries the weight of reflection. It is less a conclusion than a threshold, one that doesn’t close a door on a place, but opens it wider.

These are some of my favorite places and experiences from this journey, moments that encouraged me to meander longer, pay attention, and see this multifaceted region a little differently. That’s why this piece feels different. It isn’t a list or a guide. If anything, it’s a postcard, the kind where you try to fit too much into the small spaces, writing sideways along the edges just to get it all in. It’s a gathering of moments and places, chosen not for their popularity, but for how they made me feel. The ones that drew me in and stayed with me.

If you’re new here, consider this your fair warning: I write the way I travel—curiously, unhurried, and with a deep love for the details. So pull up a chair, grab a glass of Riesling, and if you’re scrolling on your phone… maybe stretch your thumb now and then. This may take a little while to read, but some places deserve more than a quick look.

Where American Cool-Climate Wine Found Its Footing

The road to Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery winds through some of the most beautiful stretches of the Finger Lakes, the kind that make you ease off the accelerator not because a sign tells you to, but because the landscape quietly asks you to.

Fields open like old patchwork quilts across the hillsides, stitched with vines, edged with hedgerows, and anchored by farmhouses that have weathered more than a few seasons. As the road climbs toward the western slopes of Keuka Lake, the landscape begins to unfold in layers: vineyards giving way to shimmering blue water before rising again into forested hills on the opposite shore.

Tucked into this landscape, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery doesn’t simply sit on a hill. It occupies a place in the American wine story with the kind of significance usually reserved for turning points.

When Dr. Frank arrived from Ukraine in the 1950s, he brought with him more than a Ph.D. in viticulture. He carried an unwavering belief that noble European grape varieties, the ones whose names appear in Mozart operas and Hemingway novels, could survive New York’s harsh winters.

At the time, New York was known more for sweet, simple wines than for the great European varieties Dr. Frank believed could flourish here.He planted Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir on the sloping banks of Keuka Lake, and in doing so, planted something else: possibility.

By the early 1960s, Dr. Frank had proven his point. What began as a stubborn idea had taken root, reshaping not only the Finger Lakes but the future of cool-climate winemaking throughout the eastern United States. What he established wasn’t simply a vineyard. It was the foundation of a movement, built on knowledge, perseverance, and an unwavering belief that classic European grape varieties could flourish in this remarkable landscape.

That vision didn’t end with Dr. Frank. It continued through each generation, shaping not only the winery but the Finger Lakes itself.

Today, his influence can still be felt in the vineyards that surround Keuka Lake and in the countless wineries that followed the path he helped create.

That’s why I believe a visit to Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery belongs on every Finger Lakes itinerary. It isn’t simply another tasting room or another beautiful vineyard. It’s a chance to stand where American wine quietly changed direction, in a place where history isn’t tucked away behind museum glass but remains very much alive, poured into every bottle and carried forward by each new vintage.

One of the things I appreciated most about visiting Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery was that no one seemed to be in a hurry. You can wander through the vineyards, pause to admire the view across Keuka Lake, or settle in for a tasting without ever feeling rushed. The winery is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., leaving plenty of time to enjoy the experience at your own pace.

There are several ways to experience Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, depending on how you like to spend an afternoon. The Signature Seated Tasting ($18) offers a guided introduction to the winery’s history and wines, led by one of the knowledgeable Wine Educators.

For those looking to stay a little longer, cheese and charcuterie can be added to the tasting, while Eugenia’s Garden provides a more relaxed setting to enjoy wine by the glass, a flight, or a bottle with views across the vineyards. If you’re visiting with a larger group, private tastings are also available by reservation.

If you’re the kind of traveler who enjoys that peek behind the closed door, who likes to dig a little deeper into the heart of a place, I’d recommend setting aside time for the 1886 Food & Wine Experience. I did, and it remains one of my top five food and wine pairings, ever.

The experience begins with a guided stroll through the vineyards, glass in hand, where you’re invited to walk the very rows that helped redefine American wine.

Along the way, you hear stories about the land, the family, and how this hillside became a turning point in cool-climate winemaking.

Afterward, you settle into the historic 1886 House for a seated seasonal tasting menu, where each course arrives with a thoughtfully chosen wine. Because the menu changes throughout the year, no two visits are exactly alike. From the first pour to the final bite, everything feels carefully considered, allowing the wines, the food, and the story of the Finger Lakes to unfold together.

I’ll be honest, this isn’t a casual pop-in tasting. At $75 per person, it’s a bit of an investment and perhaps not for everyone. But if you’re curious about the people and places behind the wines you enjoy, the 1886 Food & Wine Experience offers something far richer than a tasting. It invites you into the story, the soil, and the legacy of one of America’s most influential winemaking families. For me, it was worth every minute.

The experience offers a rare opportunity to see how the vision that began here is still growing, quite literally, under the care of Konstantin’s granddaughter, Meaghan Frank (pictured on the right). I had the chance to chat with her briefly during my visit, and it was easy to see that the dedication which shaped this winery generations ago continues today.

By now you’re probably wondering, “But what about the wines?” Let’s just say my suitcase wasn’t nearly big enough. Thankfully, the winery ships, and a case arrived on my doorstep not long after I returned home. Since then, each bottle has become a small reminder of that afternoon overlooking Keuka Lake. If you’re wondering whether the wines live up to the setting, they absolutely do. Just be sure to check shipping availability for your state before placing an order.

There were plenty of standouts. The sparkling wines were vibrant and beautifully made, while both the Cabernet Franc and the Merlot struck that satisfying balance between structure and approachability. And then there were the Rieslings. I don’t know why I was surprised; this is the Finger Lakes, after all. But these were beautifully balanced, quietly expressive wines that have earned a permanent place in my wine fridge. I may have even tucked a couple of bottles toward the back, saving them for the days when I’d like to be reminded of this corner of New York. The bottle that made me stop and take a second look, though, was the Saperavi.

If you’re not familiar with Saperavi, don’t worry. Most people outside the country of Georgia aren’t. It’s an ancient grape whose name literally means “to give color,” and once you see it in the glass, you’ll understand why. Unlike most red grapes, Saperavi has both red skin and red flesh, creating a wine so deeply colored it almost seems to absorb the light around it.

Dr. Frank sources this bottling primarily from Pendleton Farms, a third-generation property near Canandaigua Lake, with additional fruit from select vineyards along Seneca Lake’s sun-drenched eastern edge. These aren’t estate vineyards, but they’ve clearly been chosen with care—and the results show it.

Leaving Dr. Frank’s that afternoon, I carried more than just tasting notes or fleeting impressions. What stayed with me was a deeper appreciation for where American wine has come from and the quiet determination that continues to shape where it’s going. The experience reminded me that every great bottle begins long before the cork is pulled. It begins with someone willing to question what everyone else believes, to take the slower path, and to trust that time will eventually tell the story.

Stirring Up Something Memorable at NY Kitchen

In the same way that wine seems to settle in a little deeper when it carries a personal story—a place, a shared conversation—so does cooking. Learning a new technique in a kitchen far from home, handling ingredients pulled from local soil, picking up a recipe that once lived in someone else’s collection… it opens a more personal window into a region’s cuisine.

A memory begins to form in your hands, in the rhythm of the knife, in the scent rising from the pan. These are the kinds of lessons you don’t simply bring home. They stay with you, shaping the way you remember a place.

For all these reasons and more, my husband and I almost always make room for a cooking class when we travel, whether we’re overseas or exploring somewhere closer to home. It’s become one of our favorite ways to experience a destination. We come away with more than a new recipe or technique. We leave with a better understanding of the people, the ingredients, and the traditions there.

In the Finger Lakes, I was invited to one of the dinner classes at NY Kitchen in Canandaigua, and it quickly became one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip. It brought together everything I enjoy most about travel: learning something new, sharing a table with others, and discovering how food can tell the story of a place just as clearly as a glass of wine.

In a previous article, I shared a bit about New York Kitchen, its mission to educate and inspire through food, its beautifully curated tasting room, and the inviting restaurant showcasing ingredients from across New York State.

This dinner class, though, was where all of those pieces came together. It wasn’t simply about following a recipe. It was about understanding the ingredients, learning from the chef, sharing a table with people I’d only just met, and seeing New York’s agricultural story unfold one course at a time. And yes, the beautifully paired wine certainly didn’t hurt

The variety of cooking classes at New York Kitchen is far too extensive to list here. Whether you’re interested in homemade pizza, fresh pasta, seasonal cooking, or wine and food pairing workshops featuring Finger Lakes wines and beyond, there’s no shortage of opportunities to sharpen your skills in the kitchen. My husband and I joined the Master Class: Restaurant-Quality Steak, where, under the guidance of one of their talented chefs, we learned the techniques behind preparing a steak worthy of our favorite steakhouse.

Now, my husband already knows his way around a grill. He can cook a pretty incredible steak. But this class taught us how to master the pan-sear, something I’d never quite perfected… until now. It was an immersive, hands-on experience that began with selecting the right cut of beef, followed by lessons on seasoning, preparation, and knowing exactly when to let the pan do the work. Then came the part I’ll remember most: learning the timing and technique behind that beautifully caramelized crust, the one that locks in flavor while leaving the inside perfectly tender.

We also picked up plenty of practical tips along the way: how to judge doneness with confidence, when to let the steak rest (harder than it sounds), and those finishing touches that make the difference between a good dinner and one that feels restaurant worthy. From the rich topping spooned over the steak to the carefully chosen sides we prepared (surprisingly well, if I do say so myself), every detail had a purpose. We left with more than a recipe. We left with a handful of techniques I’ll be using for years.

What really brought the evening to life, though, were the people around us. Along with excellent instruction, we shared the kitchen with a group of fellow adventurous cooks, many there for the very same reason we were…to learn something new and hopefully not overcook the steak. Conversations came easily as we moved from one task to the next, and before long, laughter had become part of the recipe.

We traded encouragement over hot pans, celebrated the small victories when a new technique finally clicked, and lingered between steps simply because the company was as enjoyable as the meal. It never felt like a class where perfection mattered. It felt like being welcomed into a kitchen where good food naturally made room for good conversation

Once the meal was finished and a bottle from Three Brothers Winery was uncorked and poured, the evening settled into something even better. The cooking was done, the aprons came off, and the kitchen transformed into the kind of dinner party where conversation stretches just a little longer because no one is quite ready to leave.

Of all the experiences that filled this trip, this was one I knew I wanted to share. It brought together so many of the things I love most about travel: learning something new, sharing a table with people I’d only just met, and discovering a region through its food. If you’re planning time around Canandaigua Lake, I’d encourage you to save an evening for a class at New York Kitchen. Pull on an apron, roll up your sleeves, and see where the experience takes you.

As we stepped out into the night, the kitchen behind us still glowing with the last flickers of conversation, it felt like the evening had reached its natural conclusion. But the Finger Lakes had one more quiet surprise waiting. A stop for ice cream at a local favorite, followed by a sunset walk along the lakeshore, became the perfect ending to a remarkable day.

French Roots, Finger Lakes Soul

Looking back on my time in the Finger Lakes, a handful of wineries continue to stand out for very different reasons. Domaine LeSeurre earned its place on that list almost immediately.

Just outside Hammondsport, overlooking Keuka Lake, Domaine LeSeurre was one of those places that made an immediate impression. Some wineries are memorable because they’re busy and full of energy. Others are memorable because they give you room to slow down. Domaine LeSeurre was the latter. When I arrived later in the afternoon, only a few guests remained, and the tasting room had settled into the kind of quiet that invites conversation.

There was time to admire the view across Keuka Lake, ask questions, and simply enjoy being there without feeling like the next group was waiting for a seat.

Founded by Sébastien and Céline LeSeurre, the winery represents six generations of family winemaking rooted in France’s Champagne region.

Rather than recreating Champagne in New York, they embraced the Finger Lakes for what it is, a cool-climate wine region with its own distinct identity.

Drawing on generations of French experience, they apply traditional techniques such as bâtonnage, extended lees contact, and restrained use of neutral oak to craft wines that express the character of the Finger Lakes rather than overshadow it.

That philosophy has quietly earned Domaine LeSeurre a reputation as one of the region’s standout boutique wineries. Their portfolio ranges from vibrant Dry Riesling and beautifully aromatic Gewürztraminer to elegant Cabernet Franc and traditional-method sparkling wines crafted from the classic Champagne grapes that have shaped the LeSeurre family’s history for generations. Every bottle reflects a thoughtful balance of French heritage and New York terroir, allowing both stories to be told in the same glass.

If there was one wine that captured Domaine LeSeurre’s philosophy of quality over quantity, it was the Pinot Noir. Sébastien and Céline LeSeurre simply refuse to compromise. Pinot Noir is one of the most demanding grapes to grow, especially in the Finger Lakes, where a single season of challenging weather can change everything. Rather than producing a Pinot Noir every year, they would rather skip an entire vintage than bottle a wine that doesn’t meet their standards. In more than a decade of winemaking, they’ve released only a handful of vintages under the Domaine LeSeurre label.

That same patience continues in the cellar. While many New World Pinot Noirs are bottled young to showcase bright, youthful fruit, Domaine LeSeurre allows theirs to mature over the course of nearly three years, following a philosophy rooted in the traditions of Burgundy. The result is a Pinot Noir that trades exuberance for quiet confidence, revealing layers of ripe cherry, wild raspberry, dried rose petals, forest floor, and a whisper of warm spice. As someone whose Pinot Noir heart usually belongs to Burgundy and Oregon’s Willamette Valley, I’ll admit I approached this bottle with a healthy dose of curiosity. It didn’t take long to win me over.

The Chardonnay Barrel Select is crafted in a traditional Burgundian style, spending 12 months in French oak with weekly bâtonnage sur lies, the gentle stirring of the lees that builds richness, texture, and complexity. Rather than allowing the oak to dominate, it serves as a supporting note, creating a wine layered with baked golden apple, lemon curd, and subtle hints of brioche. If you enjoy the balanced, elegant Chardonnays of Burgundy more than heavily oaked California styles, you’ll feel right at home here.

It occupies that beautiful middle ground between the crisp minerality of Chablis and the richer, oak-influenced Chardonnays of California, leaning stylistically toward White Burgundy with its balance, freshness, and restrained use of oak

Among an impressive lineup of wines, the Barrel Select Cabernet Franc was the one we kept coming back to. While Cabernet Franc is often associated with France’s Loire Valley, Sébastien and Céline have crafted a version that feels uniquely at home in the Finger Lakes. In select vintages, the fruit comes from a single limestone-rich vineyard, lending the wine remarkable structure, freshness, and a subtle mineral character that beautifully balances its generous fruit.

A velvety texture gave way to layers of ripe boysenberry and black currant, followed by hints of dark chocolate, cracked black pepper, dried herbs, and just enough savory spice to keep every sip interesting. It was elegant without feeling restrained and expressive without ever becoming overripe. By the time our tasting came to an end, my husband and I didn’t need much discussion.

As much as we had enjoyed every wine we tasted that afternoon, this was the bottle that convinced us to join Domaine LeSeurre’s wine club and have a case shipped home. Sometimes one wine simply leaves no room for debate.

Looking back, it’s difficult to say whether it was the wines, the conversation, or the genuine hospitality that made Domaine LeSeurre such a memorable stop. The truth is, it was all of it. We arrived looking forward to an afternoon of wine tasting and left as members of the wine club with a case headed for Washington. I can’t think of a much stronger recommendation than that.

Rooted in Heritage, Shaped by the Ravines

One thing became increasingly clear with every winery we visited: Finger Lakes winemakers share a remarkable willingness to challenge expectations. They have taken centuries-old European traditions, adapted them to a cool-climate region that many once considered unsuitable for vinifera grapes, and in doing so have helped establish the Finger Lakes as one of America’s most respected wine regions. Just as impressive is the collaborative spirit among the wineries. Rather than guarding ideas, many share knowledge, celebrate one another’s successes, and continue pushing the region forward together.

If there was one person who seemed to embody that spirit, it was European-trained winemaker and owner Morten Hallgren of Ravines Wine Cellars. His deep respect for Old World traditions is unmistakable, yet so is his willingness to embrace what makes the Finger Lakes unique. The result is an approach that feels both rooted in history and confidently its own.

Born in Denmark and raised at his family’s winery, Domaine de Castel Roubine in Provence, France, Morten’s path into winemaking began long before he arrived in New York. After studying enology and viticulture in Montpellier and refining his craft in Bordeaux, he was recruited as chief winemaker at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1998. During his years there, he recognized something others were only beginning to see: the Finger Lakes had the potential to produce world-class, cool-climate wines that spoke clearly of their place.

In 2000, Morten and his wife, Lisa, purchased a 17-acre vineyard on the eastern slopes of Keuka Lake. They named the winery Ravines after the two deep glacial ravines that border the property, natural formations that channel cold winter air away from the vines and help protect them during the growing season. Operating from a rented barn, they released their first vintage in 2003, focused on classically styled, bone-dry Rieslings, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay.

That commitment to place continued in 2011 with the purchase of historic White Springs Farm near Geneva, an 1801 estate overlooking Seneca Lake.

Beyond its beautifully restored barn and welcoming tasting room, the property gave Ravines access to rare limestone-rich soils, another chapter in the Hallgrens’ pursuit of wines that faithfully reflect the land from which they come.

Morten welcomed us with a glass of his Sparkling Blanc de Blancs, crafted entirely from Chardonnay grown in limestone-rich soils and made using the traditional Champagne method. With its lively mousse, bright apple notes, and crisp acidity, it was an elegant introduction to the wines and the meticulous craftsmanship that followed throughout the tasting.

If there was one variety that put Ravines on the map, however, it was Riesling. Morten was one of the pioneers who helped establish the Finger Lakes as a world-class region for bone-dry Riesling, proving these cool-climate wines could stand alongside some of Europe’s finest. Rather than relying on residual sugar to soften the region’s naturally vibrant acidity, Ravines embraced it, creating wines that are precise, mineral-driven, and remarkably age-worthy.

I was completely smitten with the Rieslings. Every winery we visited seemed to have one wine that lingered in my memory long after the tasting ended. At Ravines, it was unquestionably the Riesling. Bright, beautifully balanced, and alive with citrus, orchard fruit, and a distinct mineral character, it was easy to understand why Morten spoke about these wines with such pride.

That same commitment carries through the rest of the portfolio. The Cabernet Franc offered vibrant red currant, cranberry, and wild herbs with an earthy freshness that reflected the cool climate rather than heavy oak, while the Pinot Noir leaned toward elegance over power, revealing layers of tart cherry, wild strawberry, gentle spice, and a touch of forest floor. Together, the wines shared a common thread: balance, restraint, and an unmistakable sense of place.

Leaving Ravines wasn’t easy. Had we not been expected at our next appointment, I would have happily settled into another chair, poured another glass, and continued talking with Morten for the rest of the afternoon. The conversation was every bit as memorable as the wines themselves. We didn’t leave empty-handed either, arranging to have several bottles shipped home before we pulled out of the parking lot. If you’re planning a visit to the Finger Lakes, make room for Ravines on your itinerary. I have a feeling you’ll understand exactly why it was so difficult to leave.

One Last Lingering Note

As our time in the Finger Lakes came to an end, I found myself thinking less about individual bottles and more about the people who poured them. Every winery welcomed us with genuine hospitality, generous conversations, and a willingness to share not only their wines, but the stories behind them. There was an unmistakable pride in this region, not only in what had already been accomplished, but in what the Finger Lakes continues to become. That quiet dedication seemed to echo across the vineyards, the lakes, and the small towns we explored, reminding me that the character of a wine region is shaped just as much by its people as its landscape.

If you’re planning a trip to New York wine country, don’t rush through it. Give yourself time to wander a quiet lakeside village, linger over lunch, ask questions in the tasting room, and discover the people behind the labels. Those conversations may very well become the part of the journey you remember most.

I know we’ll be back. There are still wineries to discover, roads we never turned down, and tables where new conversations are waiting. Until then, every bottle we uncork at home will bring back a little of the Finger Lakes.

Thank you for reading and for joining me throughout this Finger Lakes series. One of the greatest joys of travel writing is discovering that every journey leaves people with different memories. If you’ve visited the Finger Lakes, I’d love to hear what stayed with you most. Was it a winery, a favorite meal, a quiet lakeside town, or a conversation you’ll never forget? And if you haven’t been yet, what’s the first thing you’d want to experience?

If this article has inspired you to explore the Finger Lakes a little more deeply, I’d love for you to continue the journey with the other articles in this series. Together, they explore the landscapes, wineries, and unforgettable moments that made this corner of New York one of our favorite wine destinations.


About Elaine

Elaine is an international award-winning travel writer, wine writer, photographer, and WSET Level 3 wine professional who believes every destination has a story worth telling. Through Drink In Life, she explores wine, travel, gardens, books, food, and the quiet moments that make a life well lived.

Read more about Elaine 

All text and images © 2017-2026 Elaine Luxton, Drink In Life Blog & Drink In Nature Photography. International French 75 Day™ and French 75 Day™ are trademarks of Elaine Luxton. All rights reserved.


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