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Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo-Rosé Abruzzo Style

Posted on April 4, 2024 by drinkinlife

Exploring the Rich Heritage of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, crafted from the Montepulciano grape, stands as one of Italy’s most beloved rosé wines. As a DOC-designated wine, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo can be produced across the provinces of Chieti, L’Aquila, Pescara, and Teramo. Describing Cerasuolo within the context of Abruzzo’s winemaking heritage presents both ease and complexity. It’s effortlessly embraced as the quintessential regional wine, steeped in ancient traditions, often referred to as the “peasant’s wine”, a refreshing companion for laborious summer days. Its historical and social significance is evident, with Abruzzo’s wineries consistently featuring it in their portfolios. Some even elevate its stature by offering multiple variations.

Tracing back the origins of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo intertwines with the narrative of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo; for decades, they were bundled under the same DOC classification. However, in 2010, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo earned its distinct recognition as an independent DOC wine. The term “cerasuolo” finds its roots in ancient Greek and Neapolitan dialects, meaning “cherry,” aptly describing both its color and flavor profile. Despite its rosé classification, Cerasuolo differs significantly from typical rosés. It boasts higher alcohol content, elevated acidity, and a robust structure, setting it apart from its counterparts.

The vinification process of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo reflects its nuanced character. Crafted solely from Montepulciano grapes, it undergoes a “white” vinification method, avoiding prolonged skin contact. Alternatively, winemakers employ techniques like Saignée or Bleeding, where a portion of the must from red wine maceration tanks is vinified to produce rosé. Another traditional method involves “svacata,” where most grapes are vinified as white, with a small portion subjected to extended skin contact before final fermentation.

These methods yield a wine with a vibrant hue, balanced alcohol content, and pronounced acidity, showcasing its inherent gastronomic versatility. While Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo can mature gracefully, it shines brightest in its youthful vigor, offering a unique fusion of delicacy and strength that epitomizes its identity as Cerasuolo, a rosé like no other.

Compared to the prevailing Provençal-style rosés, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo leans toward the deeper end of the spectrum, occasionally resembling a light red wine. This characteristic depth stems from Montepulciano’s robust skins, rich in anthocyanins, which infuse the wine with both color and character.

The prevalent winemaking technique of short maceration, wherein the grape juice lingers in contact with the skins, imparts additional complexity and depth to the final product.

Regulations stipulate that Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wines must consist of a minimum of 85% Montepulciano grapes, with allowances for up to 15% other indigenous grape varieties. However, many esteemed producers opt for a 100% Montepulciano composition, showcasing the grape’s intrinsic character. Following harvest, these wines undergo a brief aging period of approximately 2-3 months in the bottle before their release to market, ensuring optimal freshness and flavor.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo: Aroma & Taste Insights

With Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, one is greeted by a radiant cherry-red hue, hinting at the sensory journey to come. Its bouquet is a delightful fusion of red fruits, including cherry, strawberry, and pomegranate, accompanied by subtle citrus notes and elegant floral undertones. Upon the palate, a pleasing roundness unfolds, characterized by a finely tuned balance of softness, lively acidity, gentle tannins, and mineral nuances, culminating in a lingering finish.

This medium-bodied wine exudes intensity and persistence, often revealing an intriguing almond-flavored finale that adds depth to its dry, soft, and harmonious profile. With alcohol content ranging from 13% to 14%, depending on the vintage, it promises a gratifying experience for discerning palates.

The adaptability of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo extends beyond its flavor profile to its serving temperature, offering a personalized journey for each enthusiast. While some prefer the refreshing qualities accentuated by chilling, others opt for a warmer serving temperature to unlock its nuanced aromas and flavors fully. This versatility ensures that every sip is tailored to individual preferences, with the recommended serving temperature falling between 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit for optimal enjoyment.

Contrary to preconceived notions of rosé as a seasonal indulgence, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo transcends such boundaries, offering a year-round delight. Reflecting the authenticity and character of its region, this wine exudes depth and complexity, leaving an enduring impression on the senses. Moreover, its remarkable versatility makes it a perfect companion for a wide array of dishes, particularly local Abruzzo cuisine, further enhancing its appeal as a gastronomic delight.

Exploring Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo with Abruzzese Cuisine

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo seamlessly integrates into the region’s culinary tapestry, enhancing the flavors of a diverse array of dishes. Its versatility shines whether as a standalone aperitif or alongside hearty meals, showcasing its ability to complement various cuisines.

From refreshing salads to seafood delicacies, its bright acidity and balanced profile make it a perfect companion for gatherings and outdoor dining, underscoring the culinary prowess of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.

When paired with antipasti featuring local cheeses, cured meats, and marinated vegetables, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo offers a refreshing contrast, cleansing the palate with its lively acidity and vibrant fruit notes. It elevates creamy burrata and sun-ripened tomato bruschetta, accentuating the freshness of each ingredient.

Transitioning to main courses, the wine enhances delicate white meats such as roast chicken or grilled veal scaloppini with its subtle tannins and bright acidity, creating harmony with every bite.

In Abruzzo’s seafood specialties like “arrosticini” lamb skewers or fresh gnocchi with a pork ragu sauce, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo finds natural companions.

Its vibrant fruit notes and subtle earthiness elevate these dishes, whether enjoyed as street food or part of a lavish feast. This versatile rosé encapsulates the essence of Abruzzese cuisine, offering a memorable dining experience that transcends traditional wine pairings and invites exploration of the region’s flavors.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Deserves a Spot on Your Wine List

This style of wine has remained somewhat under the radar in the United States, but in recent years, they’ve experienced a surge in popularity thanks to heightened quality and increased exposure. The allure of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wines is undeniable, captivating the attention of wine enthusiasts with their vibrant pigmentation that immediately piques curiosity.

Additionally, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wines often boast friendly price points, making them accessible to a wide range of wine enthusiasts. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or an adventurous newcomer, you’ll find that these wines offer exceptional value without compromising on quality.

Now is the perfect moment to explore these refreshing wines in anticipation of the blossoming season ahead.

If you’re considering delving into the world of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wines, there are several compelling reasons to take the plunge. Here, I’ll share a few standout wines discovered in Abruzzo, reflecting the region’s rich vinicultural heritage and offering a glimpse into its diverse offerings.

Ausonia

Ausonia Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Apollo, a biodynamic rosé crafted from Montepulciano grapes in the DOC Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, embodies the essence of Abruzzo’s natural beauty. Simoni Binelli and his wife Francesca established Ausonia in 2008, leaving behind pharmacy careers to pursue winemaking in Atri, Teramo. Their hands-on approach yields magnetic wines, reflecting the region and vintage faithfully. Cultivated on clay and calcareous soils, native Montepulciano vines are tended with utmost care following biodynamic and ecological principles. Hand-harvested at optimal ripeness, the grapes undergo a 10-day maceration with skins, fermentation with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and bottling without filtration or clarification.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Apollo captivates with its fruit-forward aromas of red currant, raspberry, subtle fennel and floral notes. Its full-bodied, fleshy palate is well-structured and rounded, a testament to Ausonia’s commitment to exceptional winemaking.

Orlandi Contucci Ponno

Contucci Ponno Vermiglio, a 2022 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore, is a lively and youthful wine boasting a fruity profile and a vibrant “Vermilion” hue. Its aromatic bouquet evokes the image of hand picking strawberry on a warm summer morning, while each sip transports you to a fragrant summer soirée, dancing until the sun goes down. With its notable structure, this wine is particularly enjoyable during warm weather when served chilled, making it a versatile choice for both aperitifs and accompanying meals.

During a delightful lunch at Orlandi Contucci Ponno, we savored this captivating wine alongside a delightful trio of Polenta, Fried Cheese, and Potato Croquette, a perfect complement to its charm.

Stay tuned for more insights on Orlandi Contucci Ponno an upcoming article.

Pietrantonj

Just as an Orange Wine defies categorization as solely a white wine due to its production from white grape varieties, Cerasuolo transcends mere rosé classification. It stands as a distinct entity, offering a spectrum of colors, qualities, and styles. Antica Casa Vitivinicola Pietrantonj exemplifies this with their exquisite Cerasuolo Superiore “Cerano,” crafted from the finest grapes of their premier vineyards.

This wine presents a rich tapestry of flavors, including notes of strawberry, wild cherry, and red berries, intertwined with hints of sour cherry jam and delicate rose petals. On the palate, it captivates with its velvety texture, rounded character, and a lingering progression, culminating in a characteristic almond finish. This Cerasuolo Superiore offers a clean, dry palate with a subtle touch of tannin.

Fontefico

Fontefico, founded in 1996 by brothers Nicola and Emanuele Altieri, sprawls across fifteen hectares, offering breathtaking views of the Trabocchi Gulf in Vasto. Committed to preserving the pristine terroir of the region, the brothers dedicated a decade to experimentation, both in the vineyard and cellar, seeking to articulate the essence of their cherished coastal landscape. They established three fundamental principles: organic farming practices, meticulous hand-harvesting, and crafting each wine from a single vineyard cru, harnessing the unique qualities of the soil.

Fontefico’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo exudes brightness and earthiness, with notes of wild cherry, cranberry, hints of balsamic, and the evocative essence of damp forest moss and trees, evolving into delicate tones of licorice and a unique minerality. This intense and intricate wine exhibits remarkable tension and texture, making it a versatile and sophisticated choice for any dinner table. Serving as a bridge between different palates and cuisines, this wine can be enjoyed chilled during summer gatherings with burgers or lightly cooled in winter months alongside hearty soups and stews. Its versatility makes it a secret weapon for accommodating diverse tastes, ensuring satisfaction amidst a multitude of preferences.

I hope you enjoyed this series on Abruzzo, with its amazing selection of wines, delectable local cuisine, and of course the enchanting beauty of the region. In the coming months, I will be putting a spotlight on a couple of the wineries that you should add to your itinerary when visiting Abruzzo.

Until then, Cheers and thank you for reading.

All images and content © copyrighted by Drink In Nature Photography and Drink In Life Blog.

Navigating Abruzzo’s Wine Regions

Posted on March 27, 2024 by drinkinlife

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In my previous article, I introduced the region of Abruzzo by delving into its rich winemaking heritage and diverse terroir. Now, it’s time to take a journey through Abruzzo’s wine regions and explore the esteemed DOC and DOCG designations that define the region’s landscape. I’ll share my experiences attending the “Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo” earlier this month, which offered insights into the latest vintages and trends emerging from this celebrated wine.

Exploring Abruzzo’s Wine Classifications

Abruzzo boasts four region-level denominations—Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC—each with its own distinct characteristics and appellations. These denominations have expanded to include four subzones, primarily based on the provinces of Abruzzo. These subzones, Colline Pescara, Colline Teramane, Terre di Chieti, and Terre Aquilane, highlight the diverse terroirs and microclimates within the region.

Notably, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC’s fourth new subzone, exclusive to the commune of San Martino sulla Marrucina, adds depth to the appellation’s identity. To bear the subzone name on the label, wines must originate entirely from grapes grown within the designated area.

The introduction of Superiore and Riserva levels exclusively for subzone-labeled wines has elevated the quality and prestige of Abruzzo’s offerings. These designations, indicate higher minimum alcohol levels and longer aging requirements. While some changes in aging requirements and release dates were implemented, the most notable modifications occurred within the Abruzzo DOC denomination. Here, the minimum percentages of Trebbiano and Montepulciano were raised to 85%, effectively positioning these wines as direct competitors of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, despite not being able to name the variety on the label. Additionally, the introduction of a new Rosato wine with 85% Montepulciano mirrors the offerings of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC.

Abruzzo DOC’s decision to allow varietally labeled wines, including Cococciola, Malvasia, Montonico Bianco, Passerina, or Pecorino, further demonstrate their commitment to diversity. Wines labeled as “Passerina d’Abruzzo DOC” or similar give the impression of being from a separate denomination altogether, potentially increasing their market appeal. Though these varietal wines currently may not be produced in large quantities, their introduction suggests a strategic move towards establishing them as distinct denominations in the future.

A Closer Look at the Colline Teramane DOCG

The history of Colline Teramane, located in the province of Teramo in Abruzzo, is deeply intertwined with the region’s rich winemaking heritage. Dating back centuries, the area has been revered for its fertile soils, favorable microclimate, and ideal grape-growing conditions. Historians trace the origins of winemaking in Colline Teramane to ancient Roman times, where viticulture flourished under the influence of Roman colonization and trade routes. Throughout the Medieval and Renaissance periods, winemaking in the region continued to thrive, with local producers honing their craft and cultivating indigenous grape varieties. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century that Colline Teramane began to gain recognition for its exceptional Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines.

One of the most notable transformations in Colline Teramane has been the establishment of its own DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designation in 2003. This prestigious recognition underscores the exceptional quality and distinctiveness of the wines produced within its boundaries. As a DOCG, Colline Teramane adheres to stringent regulations governing grape cultivation, winemaking practices, and aging requirements, ensuring that only the wines bear its esteemed label.

In addition to achieving DOCG status, Colline Teramane has experienced advancements in viticultural techniques and sustainability practices. Winemakers have embraced modern technologies and eco-friendly initiatives to enhance grape quality and preserve the natural beauty of the terroir. From precision viticulture to organic farming methods, these efforts have contributed to the continued success and longevity of Colline Teramane as a distinguished wine-producing region.

From the Consorzio Tutela Vini Colline Teramane DOCG Website.

“Wine produced from the Montepulciano grape and Abruzzo’s only controlled and guaranteed designation of origin. The relevant area includes a wide range of coastal and inland hills in the province of Teramo, which reaches as far as the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga foothills to the centre-north. The Consorzio di Tutela is an organization whose purpose is to safeguard and improve the quality of this wine, and for this reason applies a strict production protocol that requires yield to be lower than ninety quintals per hectare, with no overhead training system to be used for new vine installations. Plant density must be no less than 3,300 per hectare, and vinification and bottling must take place in the production district. The wine may reach the market no sooner than one year for the standard version and three years for the Riserva.”

The Expressions of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is a wine often mistaken for its namesake, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, hailing from the renowned Tuscan region. While both wines share the name “Montepulciano,” their origins and grape varietals are distinctly different. In the 19th century, there was speculation that Sangiovese, the grape used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Montepulciano grapes might be related. However, subsequent research debunked this theory, revealing it to be merely a coincidence that both Tuscany and Abruzzo utilize the name “Montepulciano.” Interestingly, Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape may have derived its name from the famous Renaissance town, adding a layer of historical intrigue to its identity. Despite the shared name, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are distinct wines, each with its own unique legacy and flavor profile.

Photo courtesy of the Consorzio Colline Teramane

Montepulciano, a thick-skinned red grape, is predominantly cultivated in central Italy, notably in the Abruzzo region. Its cultivation extends beyond Italy’s borders, with plantings in diverse locales such as Molise, Marche, Lazio, and Puglia, as well as overseas in Australia, New Zealand, and select regions of the United States, including California and Texas. Famed for its resilient demeanor, abundant yields, and versatile qualities, the Montepulciano grape produces wines renowned for their deep hues and concentrated flavors. Despite its sturdy composition, the grape’s generous juice-to-skin ratio results in wines with balanced tannins, providing winemakers with the flexibility to employ diverse techniques such as prolonged maceration and oak maturation to enrich depth and framework.

Several wine styles are produced from Montepulciano grapes, that adhere to Italian wine DOC regulations. Prominent among these are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, renowned for its blend of at least 85% Montepulciano grapes and up to 15% Sangiovese, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG, requiring a minimum of 90% Montepulciano grapes. Additionally, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo designation offers a deeply hued rosé variant, providing a versatile option for wine enthusiasts.

Vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel the wine is rich, yet fresh and fruity on the palate. Aged in oak, Montepulciano wines typically exhibit medium-bodied profiles characterized by powerful tannins, vibrant high acidity, and luscious black fruit flavors such as wild cherry, black currant and plum.

Variations in aromas and taste may include hints of leather, tobacco, dried and fresh herbs such as oregano or thyme, with oak-aged expressions offering pronounced fruit notes alongside nuances of chocolate along with warm and peppery spices. Modern Montepulciano wines, especially premium Riserva renditions, showcase a contemporary evolution marked by deep color, rich and robust structure, and layers of flavor, underscoring the grape’s adaptability and enduring appeal in the world of winemaking. Montepulciano wines typically boast a moderate alcohol content ranging from 11.5% to 13.5% ABV.

Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2024

A part of our press trip to Abruzzo included an invitation to the “Anteprima” preview event for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and Colline Teramane DOCG, dubbed the “Abruzzo Wine Experience,” which took place at Borgo Spoltino on March 1, 2024. Attendees to this distinguished event included journalists and writers from Italy and around the globe.

The event kicked off with Enrico Cerulli Irelli, president of the Colline Teramane Consortium, recognizing the achievements of the organization, now integrated into the larger Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines. Cerulli Irelli stressed that Colline Teramane represents more than a mere geographical indication for Montepulciano grapes; it embodies a landscape molded by the convergence of individuals, customs, the land and historical narratives, have all shaped viticulture and enriched the unique character of its wines.

Cerulli Irelli went on to add, “Today, this excellence is unequivocally recognized as a beacon of quality within the realm of Abruzzo wines on the global stage.”

(Photo; Enrico Cerulli Irelli on the left and Franco D’Eusanio on the right)

Franco D’Eusanio, vice president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo also shared the following: The current trend is leaning toward seeking out wines that are more approachable and easier to drink, and this trend extends to Montepulciano DOC wines as well. With the evolving landscape, it becomes crucial to distinguish the offerings of different producers in a clear manner, enabling consumers to understand wines from this region vary significantly, even within the same denomination. The Abruzzo model exemplifies this concept, highlighting distinct and characterful terroirs where a grape like Montepulciano, in its various clones, showcases diverse expressions.

D’Eusanio went on to explain that the aim was to depart from the usual grand tasting format by dedicating a moment solely to the flagship wine of the region. By advancing the event, they provide the wineries with the platform to showcase their products, ensuring that both consumers and buyers recognize the breadth of choices available.

Photo of D’Eusanio courtesy of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo

Our morning kicked off with an optional ‘blind tasting’ showcasing Colline Teramane DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, a fantastic opportunity I eagerly awaited. Prior to embarking on this journey to Abruzzo, my encounters with these wines had been limited, heightening my anticipation for the tasting session. Twenty-Seven Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG wines from different producers were sampled in the ‘blind tasting, twelve of them Riservas and the vintages ranged from the 2018 to the 2022.

The experience provided valuable insights without the influence of labels or preconceptions, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the essence of each wine. What impressed me the most was the wide range of styles showcased at the event, a testament to the innovative approach and steadfast commitment of Abruzzo’s winemaking community. From robust and bold expressions to graceful and sophisticated ones, there was a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo suitable for every taste and occasion.

Beyond the sensory exploration, there was a profound sense of appreciation in attending such a prestigious gathering and this experience left a lasting impression on my journey as a wine enthusiast and wine writer.

Following a brief lunch interlude, participants reconvened at the tasting tables for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Grand Tasting session, presenting a curated selection of 69 wines for sampling. The wines were categorized into two groups: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, showcasing vintages from 2020 to 2022, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, exclusively featuring 2020 vintages, both categories were sourced from different Zones and Subzones.

At each table, sommeliers were on hand to pour the requested wines from the list. Our group of English-speaking Americans and Canadians chose to be led through the tasting experience by our assigned sommelier. He skillfully offered insights into the producers and the distinct qualities of the wines he curated for our sampling, enhancing our overall appreciation of the selections.

During the tasting session, I began to draw comparisons between Montepulciano and two renowned varietals, Merlot and Chianti, both of which I have always appreciated. This exploration piqued my curiosity further regarding the distinct characteristics of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As I continued to delve into these wines, their unique traits became more apparent, providing insight into the region’s esteemed winemaking heritage and unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional quality wines.

Sampling a multitude of wines within a single day can pose a challenge in pinpointing favorites. Nevertheless, amidst the Grand Tasting, certain wines distinctly captured my attention and left a lasting impression.

These wines included the 2020 Tenuta De Melis Bardasce, 2020 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2020 Fontefico Cocca di Casa, 2022 Cantina Tollo Insetti Bio, and 2020 Barba i Vasari Old Wines. Each of these selections stood out for their distinctiveness, truly embodying the essence of the Abruzzo region.

In Closing….

The wines from the Abruzzo region serve as eloquent representatives, highlighting Abruzzo’s abundant viticultural heritage and its talent for crafting wines of exceptional quality and distinct character. Combining tradition, innovation, and unmatched hospitality, the event epitomizes the essence of Abruzzo winemaking, reaffirming the region’s reputation as a premier destination for wine enthusiasts worldwide.

There is still more to come about Abruzzo including the next article in my series just in time for Spring Rosé season , Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo-Rosé Abruzzo Style.

As always, thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Abruzzo or this series. Cheers!