Drink In Life

Snipes Mountain AVA-Where History Meets Terroir

Posted on June 13, 2024 by drinkinlife

If you’ve been following my series on Washington AVAs, such as my articles on WASHINGTON’S SMALL BUT MIGHTY AVA, WASHINGTON’S ROYAL AVA-ROYAL SLOPE, and WINE EXPLORATION IN THE LEWIS AND CLARK VALLEY AVA, you’ll know I’m systematically covering all of the state’s AVAs, chronologically from newest to oldest (pre-2021). However, I’m holding off on writing about the Lake Chelan AVA until I can revisit the region for further research. Instead, I’m jumping ahead to the Snipes Mountain AVA, which was designated as the state’s 10th AVA in February 2009.

Situated between the eastern town of Sunnyside and the western town of Granger in south-central Washington, the esteemed Snipes Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA) commands attention with its rich history and distinctive landscape. Named after the prominent landform that defines its boundaries, this AVA encompasses the Harrison Hill area to the east, characterized by similar soils and topography.

As a sub-appellation of the Yakima Valley, which in turn is nested within the broader Columbia Valley, the Snipes Mountain AVA holds a revered status in Washington’s wine industry. Celebrated for its historical significance and unique terroir, it lays claim to some of the oldest grapevine plantings in the state. Spanning approximately 4,145 acres, it stands as a testament to the adage that great things come in small packages, solidifying its reputation as a hidden gem within Washington’s vibrant wine landscape.

Elevated Ancient Stone Terrior

Spanning the seven-mile-long ridge of Snipes Mountain, this viticultural area boasts a geography shaped by its strategic location. Situated within the rain shadow cast by the Cascade Mountains, it experiences a warm and dry climate, essential for cultivating high-quality grapes. The steep slopes, facing both north and south, not only contribute to the picturesque landscape but also play a crucial role in grape cultivation. They facilitate the natural flow of cold air, mitigating the risk of frost damage, while offering diverse aspects that enhance the complexity of wines produced in the region.

Perched atop a 1,310-foot upthrust, Snipes Mountain stands proudly within the heart of the expansive Yakima Valley.

While its geological formation resembles more of an anticline than a traditional mountain, its elevation and position within the Yakima fold belt make it a significant feature in the region. (The Yakima folds are notable anticlines and represent the principal tectonic structures in the hinterland of the northern Cascadia subduction zone). This geological prominence, akin to a solitary sentinel, casts a commanding shadow over the surrounding landscape, offering a unique microclimate that has proven ideal for viticulture.

In this arid, continental climate, irrigation becomes a vital component of grape cultivation, mirroring practices found across eastern Washington’s viticultural landscape. The combination of unique geography, elevation, and climate creates an environment where vinifera grapes thrive, resulting in wines of exceptional quality and character.

The geological story of Snipes Mountain is a captivating narrative of ancient forces and dramatic events that have left an indelible mark on its rugged terrain. As one explores this landscape, the remnants of bygone eras become tangible, with large cobblestones scattered across the earth, remnants of the once-mighty Columbia River that carved its path through the region. These stones serve as silent witnesses to the geological history that has shaped the mountain over millennia.

Embedded within this rocky substrate lies a layer of loess, a fine-grained sediment deposited by ancient winds that swept across the landscape, carrying particles from distant lands.

Beneath this surface layer, remnants of Missoula Flood sediment can be found, a testament to the cataclysmic glacial outburst floods that reshaped the region during the last ice age, leaving behind a legacy ingrained in the very fabric of the earth.

The geological composition of Snipes Mountain is a reflection of its unique history and geological events. Predominantly composed of Aridisol, the region is characterized by the Ellensburg Formation, a conglomerate of river-washed rocks and coarse sediment formed through tectonic uplift. This distinctive geological makeup distinguishes Snipes Mountain from its surroundings, with its soils bearing the imprint of ancient geological processes that have unfolded over millennia.

Extensive geological research conducted during the AVA petition process sheds light on the significance of Snipes Mountain’s geological heritage. A comparative analysis of soil series with the established Yakima Valley viticultural area underscores the unique geological events that have shaped the mountain’s soils. From the deposition of sediments by ancient floods to the arid, rocky soils that now define the landscape, Snipes Mountain’s geological diversity tells a story of resilience and adaptation in the face of geological upheaval.

The unique combination of rocky soils on Snipes Mountain imposes a beneficial stress on the vines, contributing to the production of grapes with exceptional quality. These rocky terrains naturally restrict vine vigor, compelling the vines to channel their energy into producing fewer, smaller berries. Despite the challenges posed by the rocky substrate, this limitation fosters a remarkable concentration of flavor compounds within the grapes.

The result? Wines crafted from these grapes exhibit heightened intensity and structure, showcasing the distinctive terroir of Snipes Mountain. This concentration of flavors, coupled with the inherent structure derived from the challenging growing conditions, result in wines of exceptional depth and complexity.

Snipes Mountain AVA boasts a diverse array of wine grape varietals, each thriving in its unique terroir. Among the red grape varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme, showcasing its bold flavors and robust structure. Merlot also finds a comfortable home in the AVA, contributing to elegant blends and producing wines with soft, velvety textures.

On the white grape side, Chardonnay stands out as a star performer, displaying a range of styles from crisp and refreshing to rich and creamy, depending on the winemaker’s preferences. Together, these diverse grape varietals along with over 30 other varietals, contribute to the vibrant tapestry of wines produced in the Snipes Mountain AVA, each expressing the unique characteristics of the region’s terroir with finesse and distinction.

Snipes Mountain’s Historic Significance in Washington

In the late 1850s, the picturesque expanse around what would eventually be named Snipes Mountain witnessed the establishment of a significant cattle operation by Ben Snipes, who erected a house at the mountain’s base. Fast forward to 1914, and a new era unfolded in the region’s narrative with the visionary endeavor of William Bridgman, a prominent figure who held the mayoral office in Sunnyside twice. Bridgman’s pioneering zeal led him to ascend Snipes Mountain, nestled in the heart of the Yakima Valley. His aspirations transcended mere agriculture, evident in the diverse assortment of European wine varietals flourishing on the slopes by 1917. Among them were Zinfandel, Semillon, Muscat of Alexandria, Thompson Seedless, Sauvignon Blanc, and Carignane, laying the foundation for what would eventually blossom into the renowned Upland Vineyard.

The story of Upland Estates Vineyards and Winery finds its genesis in Bridgman’s endeavors. In 1917, he commenced planting wine grapes on Snipes Mountain, and to this day, some of those vines continue to yield grapes utilized by the Newhouse family in their winemaking pursuits. Bridgman realized his vision with the opening of Upland Winery in 1934, making it the sole commercial winery in Eastern Washington at the time.

Determined to produce European style vinifera wines amidst a climate favoring sweet, fortified wines, Bridgman’s legacy extends to his influence on Walter Clore, a luminary in Washington’s wine scene. Clore redirected his research towards wine grapes under Bridgman’s guidance, earning him the moniker “father of Washington wine.” However, severe winters between 1949 and 1951 led Bridgman to pivot towards sweet, fortified wines, until the winery’s eventual closure in 1972, shortly after Bridgman’s passing.

The Newhouse family, who still farm Snipes Mountain today, has been intertwined with the grape-growing landscape since 1968 when Alfred Newhouse, driven by a profound respect for the land and a love for viticulture, planted the family’s inaugural wine grapes atop the rugged terrain. With an acute awareness of the region’s potential, Alfred embarked on this agricultural journey, laying the foundation for a remarkable legacy in Washington’s wine industry. This pivotal moment marked the genesis of the Newhouse family’s enduring bond with Snipes Mountain, heralding decades of devoted stewardship in producing exceptional wines that echo the terroir’s distinctive essence and the family’s steadfast dedication to excellence.

Todd Newhouse, the son of Alfred Newhouse, finds deep resonance in the saga of William B. Bridgman, whose pioneering spirit ignited the vinicultural destiny of Washington. Today, Todd stands as a guardian of the family’s esteemed legacy, honoring tradition while tirelessly cultivating over 30 grape varietals on Snipes Mountain. His partnership with Joan Davenport bore fruit with Snipes Mountain’s formal recognition as an American Viticultural Area in 2009, thereby affirming its enduring significance in the annals of Washington’s viticultural history.

An Interview with Todd Newhouse

Exploring the nuanced contours of the Snipes Mountain AVA would not be complete without engaging in dialogue with Todd Newhouse, a pivotal figure in championing this distinctive viticultural region. As Chairman of the Wine Grape Growers of America and scion of a family deeply entrenched in the area’s grape-growing legacy, Todd offers invaluable insights into the AVA’s historical tapestry, its evolution, and its enduring significance in Washington’s esteemed winemaking narrative.

As my visit to Snipes Mountain began with Todd, I wanted to delve into the region’s history by asking him to share a brief account of how his family established their presence in this corner of Washington state. I also wanted to know if he could provide some information about the oldest vines that are still there.

“Both sets of my great grandparents homesteaded in the lower Yakima valley outside of Sunnyside. The Newhouse side did so in 1911 in the southern shadow of Snipes Mountain while Bridgman was just getting started. The family farmed a lot of cattle and alfalfa and eventually started the Valley’s first dairy in the 20’s. In addition to the cattle, row crops and dairy, my grandfather and his brothers eventually added hops, tree fruit and juice grapes to the portfolio, most of which went in at the base of Snipes Mountain.“

“In 1968 my grandfather decided he wanted to try wine grapes. In 1972 the Bridgman family put Upland Vineyards and Winery up for sale. My grandfather bought all of the vineyards on Snipes Mountain but not the winery. The Newhouse brothers split the main farm up in 1982 but my father and grandfather decided to stay mainly on Snipes Mountain and continued to increase their wine grape acreage. Over time, all of Bridgman’s original vines were replaced by varieties that were more in vogue and virus free. The oldest vines we currently have are the 1962 Harrison Hill Cabernet. The oldest vines we have that were planted by our family are Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Morio Muscat; all planted in 1979.”

Intrigued by the Harrison Hill Vineyard that is also part of the Snipes Mountain AVA, I asked Todd if he could share some of the history about this historic vineyard.

“WB Bridgman first planted grapes (non-vinifera) on the Harrison Hill in 1914. By 1917 he had planted some vinifera on Harrison Hill as well as Snipes Mountain proper (Snipes and Harrison are part of the same formation but are separated by a low point which is where I-82 now sits and splits the two). Harrison Hill seemed to have changed varieties several times over the years until the early 60’s when Bridgman sold it to Associated Vintners, which eventually became Columbia Winery. As soon as they bought it, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the site, which became Washington’s second Cabernet planting.”

“In 1991, the Newhouse family bought the ground and contracted the fruit to DeLille Cellars, who subsequently started the Harrison Hill label. We took out some of the Cabernet in order to plant Merlot and Cabernet Franc to complete the Bordeaux blend. A portion of the original Cabernet vines are still farmed today.”

Todd shared with me that they currently distribute fruit to more than 25 wineries and produce more than 35 grape varieties. He says “the AVA helps protect the name usage. To bottle a wine and say it comes from the Snipes Mountain AVA, more than 85 percent of the grapes have to actually be grown in the Snipes Mountain area.”

Since becoming an AVA in 2009, Snipes Mountain has not changed much since it was established. There are still no wineries within the boundaries of Snipes Mountain and the wine grape acreage has only increased from 800 to 850 with only four growers farming the AVA. With this in mind I asked Todd what he was most excited about when it comes to the future of the Snipes Mountain AVA.

“Without a winery on Snipes Mountain, it has been a challenge to get the Snipes name out there. There are a handful of smaller wineries making 100% Snipes wines, but it has been difficult to grow that number or for larger wineries to vineyard designate because of the limited number of acres and plantable ground on Snipes. However, since establishing the AVA in 2009 the awareness has steadily increased and I’m excited to see that awareness continue to grow and to see where it will ultimately lead.”

In my next question to Todd, I highlighted the pivotal role of grape growers like him propelling the Washington Wine Industry to its current standing as the second largest in wine production and sales in the U.S. I asked him to share his observations on the positive developments or key factors he has noticed in the evolution of Washington State wine over the years, distinct from the AVA.

“One key factor is that we tend to do a lot of varieties very well. Whereas Washington has a lot of Riesling, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah vines in the ground, we don’t have one particular variety that we are known for. I think this is a big plus as it gives our region more diversity: if you visit Washington State and have a favorite wine, then you’re almost guaranteed to find a great bottle of that favorite wine. It allows our region to compete globally with every other region at every level.”

As Todd also serves as the Chairman of the Wine Grape Growers of America, I inquired about his role in this esteemed position and requested insights into his responsibilities and duties as Chairman.

“This organization is in the midst of a sort of transitional period. We used to be somewhat tied to the Wine America organization but recently the two are operating more independently and WGA is figuring out how best to do that. A national organization such as this one is challenging because whereas all states have wineries (and most all grow wine grapes), there are many different levels and every state has their own needs. This makes it difficult to get all states on board for specific issues. How to structure dues can also be challenging because of each state’s impact on our national industry.’‘

”As far as acreage goes, there is California, Washington, Oregon and New York, and then there is everybody else. Although the board is always a representation of various states, major and minor, California and Washington tend to drive the organization from a content and organizational point of view. The main focus of the organization is lobbying in Washington DC and making sure grape growers around the country have a voice nationally when it comes to regulatory issues and policy making. My job as chairman, or of any officer of the board, is to assist the executive director in planning national meetings, prioritizing national issues and overseeing the finances of the organization.”

Inquisitive about his experiences as a grape grower, I asked Todd if he had a favorite grape varietal that he particularly enjoyed cultivating.

“Grenache. Our site does extremely well with Grenache, and I feel that I have a really good handle on how to grow it. To make a great Grenache, it takes more vineyard passes throughout the growing season than any other variety we grow. Grenache loves to naturally set a lot of fruit so learning how and when to manage that load is half the challenge. The other half of the challenge is managing the canopy and fruit color. Timing is everything with Grenache and if you get an early pass wrong then it tends to domino throughout the growing season and be difficult to get back on track. I also love to drink Grenache. To me there are five types of wine: Red, White, Rose’, Sparkling, and Grenache! Technically it would be in the Red category but I think it drinks and pairs with food so differently than any other red that it deserves its own category.”

I went on to ask about his favorite varietal to drink and why?

“Very tough question but I would have to say Cabernet Franc. You don’t find many straight Franc’s and you find even less well-made Franc’s but when you do find one, it’s a real treat. More of a medium bodied wine than it’s big brother Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc pairs well with both beef and pork and most importantly, mushrooms! A good franc will have the benefits of being fruit forward with subtle tannins while maintaining a little bit of the variety’s herbaceousness. However, the main problem with a bad Franc is that it can be too veggie tasting or over-extracted. It can be a challenging variety to grow and a difficult wine to make which makes it all the more exciting when you find a good bottle.”

My time spent driving around the Snipes Mountain AVA and conversing with Todd Newhouse was undoubtedly one of the most enriching experiences I’ve had while researching Washington’s AVAs. In just a few short hours, Todd shared a wealth of knowledge, delving into the area’s rich history, his family’s deep-rooted connection to viticulture, and the intricacies of grape growing in the region. His insights into the Washington Wine Industry were invaluable, but what truly stood out was his passion for the craft and his genuine enthusiasm for sharing it with others.

Todd’s role as Chairman for the Wine Grape Growers of America speaks volumes about his expertise and influence in the realm of winemaking, not only within Washington but across the United States. His deep understanding of the industry and his pulse on the wines being produced nationwide further underscored the significance of the Snipes Mountain AVA within the broader context of American viticulture.

Snipes Mountain AVA holds a significant place in the history of Washington wine. Its geological formations, deeply rooted viticultural traditions, and ongoing cultivation by families like the Newhouses underscore its importance in the region’s winemaking landscape. Renowned for its unique terroir, including its elevation, diverse soils, and favorable climate, Snipes Mountain consistently yields wines of exceptional quality. Beyond its role in wine production, the AVA represents a legacy of innovation, resilience, and dedication within Washington’s winemaking community. With each bottle, consumers taste not only the region’s distinct flavors but also the craftsmanship and heritage that have shaped its evolution. Snipes Mountain AVA stands as a symbol of excellence and a vital part of Washington’s esteemed winemaking history.

Thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Washington Wines or the Washington AVAs. Cheers Everyone!

Other Washington AVAs already covered in this series include; WASHINGTON’S SMALL BUT MIGHTY AVA, WASHINGTON’S ROYAL AVA-ROYAL SLOPE, WINE EXPLORATION IN THE LEWIS AND CLARK VALLEY AVA ,THE ALLURING ANCIENT LAKES AVA and AN ELEVATED DISTINCTION-NACHES HEIGHTS AVA

If you want to learn more about Washington state wine history you can read my articles; WASHINGTON WINE: THE SHAPING OF A REGION, WASHINGTON WINE: THE EARLY YEARS and WASHINGTON WINE: THE EVOLUTION OF THE INDUSTRY.

All images and content © copyrighted by Drink In Nature Photography and Drink In Life Blog.

Unveiling Rome’s Wonders: A Guide for Solo Women Explorers

Posted on April 8, 2024 by drinkinlife

2 Comments

“I WONDERED WHY IT WAS THAT PLACES ARE SO MUCH LOVELIER WHEN ONE IS ALONE.”
– DAPHNE DU MAURIER

Navigating the World Independently

On my most recent trip to Italy for a Press Trip in Abruzzo, I opted for my first Solo European Adventure. Embarking on solo travel, especially as a woman, may initially seem daunting, but it’s a transformative experience that can significantly enhance your confidence and sense of independence. Exploring Rome alone opened up a world of discovery and empowerment for me, allowing me to fully engage with the city’s beauty while embracing the freedom to follow my own path. As a solo female traveler, navigating Rome became more than just sightseeing; it became a testament to my resilience and capability to chart my own course through unfamiliar territory.

Moreover, traveling solo in my fifties presented its own set of challenges and opportunities for growth. While some may view age as a limitation, I saw it as an opportunity to defy stereotypes and push my boundaries. Overcoming obstacles such as language barriers and unfamiliar environments became a source of empowerment, proving that age is no barrier to adventure. With each challenge conquered, I gained a renewed sense of confidence and self-assurance, reaffirming that solo travel knows no age limits.

“TO AWAKEN QUITE ALONE IN A STRANGE TOWN IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANT SENSATIONS IN THE WORLD.”
– FREYA STARK

Self-Discovery Through Solo Travel

The prospect of solo travel comes with its share of considerations, yet the benefits far outweigh any apprehensions. Embarking on solo trips allows you to fully immerse yourself in the experience, catering entirely to your own desires and interests. For those hesitant to embark on a solo journey, starting small is key. Consider beginning your solo travel adventures with a long weekend getaway to one of Europe’s enchanting cities. Whether it’s the romantic allure of Paris, the artistic vibrancy of Barcelona, or the historic allure of Rome, there’s a destination to suit every solo traveler’s preference. Taking the leap into solo travel promises an enriching and fulfilling experience.

Solo travel can cultivate self-discovery and personal growth, challenging you to navigate unfamiliar terrain and embrace moments of solitude. As you venture more, even going beyond the tourist trails, you can encounter opportunities for introspection and introspection.

Ultimately, solo travel evolves beyond mere sightseeing into a transformative odyssey of self-exploration. It offers an opportunity to unlock one’s capabilities and embrace a fresh perspective on the world.

Traveling solo offers the opportunity to connect with locals and fellow travelers in a more meaningful way. Whether striking up a conversation with a local shopkeeper or joining a guided tour, solo travelers often find themselves more approachable and open to new interactions. These encounters not only enrich the travel experience but also foster a sense of community and belonging, even when exploring unfamiliar territories alone. Embracing the spontaneity and freedom that solo travel affords can lead to unexpected friendships and unforgettable moments along the way.

While traveling alone, especially as a woman, it’s important to remember that safety measures and preparation are essential. Researching your destination beforehand, including understanding local customs and cultural norms, can help alleviate concerns and ensure a smoother experience. Additionally, packing light and staying aware of your surroundings can contribute to your personal security. Trusting your instincts and being cautious, yet open-minded, can lead to memorable and rewarding experiences on your solo travels.

Navigating Rome On My Own

Having visited Rome before, I was eager to blend past memories with new discoveries in this captivating yet bustling city. As a solo female traveler, navigating the Eternal City proved to be a memorable experience, despite my limited grasp of Italian. With each step, I found myself immersed in the city’s timeless allure, where every corner and storefront exuded a photogenic Roman charm.

I embraced the spontaneity of following wherever my feet led me, eager to focus more on the less touristy areas of Rome, seek out photo opportunities, and delve deeper into the history, culture, and culinary delights. It felt akin to being a self-guided student on an immersive field trip through the heart of Rome.

When in Rome, don’t hesitate to wander off the beaten path. Rome is brimming with hidden gems waiting to be discovered, and you might stumble upon these treasures by getting a little lost.

Following a map may lead you to iconic sights, but veering off course allows you to uncover the city’s lesser-known wonders and unexpected delights.

Amidst capturing hundreds of photos and being immersed behind the lens for much of my visit, I made a conscious effort to pause, observe, listen, and truly savor every moment of the experience.

During my stay in Rome, I dedicated much of my time to exploring the vibrant neighborhoods of Monti and Trastevere. These bustling areas were conveniently situated near my hotel, allowing for easy access on foot. Despite having limited prior exposure to these districts, I seized the opportunity to leisurely wander through their streets.

Along the way, I stumbled upon charming cafes, artisanal shops, and picturesque squares as well as lesser-known landmarks like Turtle Fountain, which let me completely immerse myself in the local atmosphere.

Situated in Piazza Mattei, within Rome’s Sant’Angelo district, Turtle Fountain or the Fontana delle Tartarughe as it is official called is a stunning fountain from the late Italian Renaissance era. Constructed between 1580 and 1588, it was a collaborative effort between architect Giacomo della Porta and sculptor Taddeo Landini.

The pedestrian-friendly layout of the neighborhoods made navigation effortless, affording me the chance to fully appreciate their historic charm and unique character.

One piece of advice stands paramount, although I did not visit any of Rome’s more popular attractions on this trip, for must-see points of interest like the Colosseum and Vatican Museums, securing advance tickets prior to your arrival is essential. By doing so, you’ll bypass the queues and ensure that your precious time in Rome isn’t spent waiting in line, but rather soaking in its rich history and culture.

Discover a Hidden Side of Rome in Trastevere

The exhilarating journey of solo travel for the first time is stepping into a world of boundless possibilities and self-discovery. Rome, with its rich tapestry of history, culture, and gastronomy, serves as the perfect backdrop for this transformative experience. I chose to delve into an area of Rome that I had not visited during previous visits, the labyrinthine streets of Trastevere. Translated as “Across the Tiber River,” Trastevere exudes an unparalleled ambience.

Within this bohemian neighborhood, known for its charm and authenticity rather than its tourist appeal, you’ll find narrow, winding lanes lined with atmospheric cafés, bars, and restaurants.

Filetti di baccalà, this is a classic, known for crispy battered cod fillets.

In Trastevere you are met with a myriad of sensory delights, the tantalizing aroma of freshly baked pizza wafting through the air, the melodic chatter of locals congregating in bustling piazzas, and the timeless allure of ancient ruins whispering tales of centuries past.

Being alone, afforded me the freedom to immerse myself fully in the essence of this part of Rome, without the constraints of a planned route or worrying if my stopping to take photos every couple of minutes would slow anyone else down.

I could meander through hidden alleyways, be amazed when I stumble upon tucked-away trattorias, and strike up conversations with locals, which fostering a deeper connection with the area.

“Rome is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.”
-Giotto di Bondone, Renaissance painter

In going Solo as with any travel, you just need to embrace the journey with an open heart and a spirit of adventure, and you’ll find that the rewards far exceed any reservations. Plus, you might just discover a newfound sense of empowerment and liberation along the way.

Epicurean Excursions: Savoring the Best of Rome on a Food Tour

Exploring the educational food tours led by local guides, readily available in most major cities while traveling solo, can present a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the culinary and cultural depth of a destination. My experience in Traverse with Gourmetaly Rome Food Tours, was no exception, offering a rich blend of flavors, history, and tradition that left an indelible mark on my solo journey.

The culinary adventure that I chose, Campo de’ Fiori, Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere – Food tour of Rome was led by a local food connoisseur who knows the city’s flavors like the back of her hand and although it was late February, Rome’s mild climate makes outdoor exploration enjoyable even in the winter months. The morning tour began with a visit to the lively Campo de’ Fiori market, a bustling hub of activity that’s a must-see for any food enthusiast.

Campo de Fiori, once a sprawling meadow adorned with vibrant blooms, now stands as a bustling square steeped in history and charm. Its name, meaning ‘field of flowers’, harkens back to its origins, which date back to the 15th century when Pope Callisto III ordered its transformation into a paved thoroughfare. Over time, the square became a hub for craftsmen and artisans, a legacy still reflected in its street names today; from Via dei Giubbonari, the street of tailors, to Via dei Baullari, the street of coffee-makers.

However, Campo de Fiori’s past isn’t without its darker chapters. Once infamous as a site for public executions, the square witnessed the tragic fate of Giordano Bruno, a philosopher burned at the stake in the 17th century for his radical cosmological theories.

Today, amidst the echoes of history, tourists and locals alike gather at the square, lounging at Bruno’s feet while indulging in modern luxuries like gelato and smartphones, a stark contrast to its somber origins.

For a food enthusiast like me, Campo de Fiori holds a special allure. Its daily market, a culinary haven teeming with fresh produce, artisanal delights, and a vibrant atmosphere.

While slightly touristy, the market still retains its local charm, offering a plethora of treasures ranging from stunning fresh flowers to succulent fruits and vegetables as well as aromatic cheeses, spices and even some creative culinary devices.

The market offered a small taste of local living, enriching my experience and making me feel like a true resident of Rome, if only for a fleeting moment.

Indulging in Roman Delights

Situated just on the outskirts of the vibrant marketplace in Campo de’ Fiori, Forno Campo de’ Fiori holds a storied legacy dating back to 1880.

With its unassuming facade adorned by a prominent wooden sign bearing the word “FORNO,” this beloved bakery has become a quintessential stop for both locals and tourists alike. Renowned for its delectable array of pastries, panini, and artisanal pizzas, Forno Campo de’ Fiori should be high on your list as a culinary destination in Rome.

As you peer through its windows, you are greeted by the mesmerizing sight of bakers skillfully crafting oversized pizzas, some stretching up to four feet in length.

Within its bustling interior, visitors are enveloped in the aroma of freshly baked goods and the lively chatter of eager customers.

Whether savoring the simplicity of the classic pizza rossa or delighting in the savory goodness of Mortadella-stuffed pizzas, Forno Campo de’ Fiori offers an authentic taste of Italian culinary excellence that beckons travelers to experience the essence of Rome’s gastronomic heritage firsthand.

It’s no wonder that Forno Campo de’ Fiori was chosen as the inaugural stop for this food tour in Rome, it truly set the perfect tone for a journey through the city’s rich culinary landscape.

Continuing our culinary exploration through the charming streets of Rome, our next stop led us to Salsamenteria Ruggeri Vini Liquori, a notable market tucked away in the maze of the city.

This market is renowned for its diverse array of meticulously curated meats, cheeses, and locally sourced ingredients.

Here, we had the opportunity to sample a selection of local flavors, including various salamis, cheeses, sun-dried tomatoes, and olives.

As our culinary adventure through Rome continued to unfold, our journey took a poignant turn as we ventured into the historic Jewish Ghetto in Trastevere. Stepping into this neighborhood felt like traversing through time, as the cobblestone streets whispered tales of resilience and survival amidst a tumultuous history. The Jewish Ghetto, established in 1555 by Pope Paul IV, was a segregated area where Rome’s Jewish population was confined for centuries.

Walking through the narrow alleys, we were immediately struck by the palpable weight of history. Amidst the charming architecture and bustling cafes, you couldn’t ignore the gold square markers embedded in the cobblestones outside several residences. These markers, known as “Stolpersteine” or stumbling stones, serve as poignant reminders of the tragic events that unfolded during the Holocaust. Each gold square bears the name of a Jewish individual who once lived in the neighborhood, marking the spot where they were forcibly removed from their homes and deported to concentration camps. It was impossible not to be moved by the sight of these markers, each one representing a life torn apart by unimaginable cruelty.

Beyond its tragic past, the Jewish Ghetto is also a vibrant hub of culture and heritage. Today, it boasts a thriving community and is home to synagogues, kosher restaurants, and shops selling traditional Jewish delicacies.

In the heart of the historic Jewish Ghetto, we arrived at our eagerly anticipated food destination: La Taverna del Ghetto.

For me the anticipation of this location was driven by my desire to sample authentic Jewish delicacies and to experience firsthand a restaurant featured in Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy.” During our visit, we sampled a selection of traditional Jewish specialties that have endured through generations.

From the crispy fried artichokes to the savory Roman-Jewish dishes such as carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) and Supplì (Roman Rice Croquettes), each bite was a tribute to the culinary legacy of the Jewish Ghetto. Accompanied by local wine, our meal provided a delightful immersion into the rich flavors and traditions of this historic neighborhood.

Our guide, a font of knowledge and passion for Roman history and cuisine, also shared during the meal some history and the significance of artichokes in both Roman and Jewish culinary traditions. In Roman cuisine, artichokes are revered as a symbol of abundance and prosperity. Within the Jewish culture, artichokes hold a special significance, symbolizing hope and renewal, particularly during times of celebration and remembrance.

As we forged ahead on our culinary journey through the lively streets of Rome, passing by iconic landmarks and observing locals immersed in their daily routines, our next destination beckoned with the promise of pasta perfection: Ristorante Sette Oche in Altalena.

Inside Ristorante Sette Oche in Altalena, we were greeted with warm hospitality and an inviting ambiance.

Despite a moment of hesitation due to an increasingly full stomach, I found ourselves unable to resist the food and wine placed in front of me.

I have to admit that savored each bite of Tonnarelli with pecorino cheese and pepper, I appreciated the simplicity of the ingredients, which allowed the flavors to come to the forefront. The dish’s creamy richness complemented the subtle heat of freshly ground black pepper, resulting in a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Similarly pleasing was the Pasta Amatriciana, a pasta dish featuring tomato, bacon, and Pecorino Romano cheese. The robust flavors of the bacon and tangy tomato sauce melded together seamlessly.

No food tour would be complete without satisfying one’s sweet tooth, and our culinary journey was no exception.

As our exploration drew to a close, our final destination beckoned with promises of indulgence: Fior di Luna, renowned for its award-winning gelato.

Stepping into Fior di Luna, we were greeted by an array of vibrant flavors and enticing aromas, each more tempting than the last. From classic favorites like creamy pistachio and velvety chocolate to innovative creations boasting fresh fruit and decadent toppings, the options were endless.

As I savored the final treat of the day, I couldn’t help but reflect on the diverse array of flavors and experiences we had encountered throughout the day, each one leaving an indelible mark on our palate and memories. With hearts and stomachs full, I left the tour with a newfound appreciation for the culinary delights of the Eternal City, eager to return and embark on another gastronomic adventure soon.

Gourmetaly also has a fantastic blog where they share insight into Rome’s history, culture and local food. If you are planning a trip to Rome, it is worth reading before you start your adventure.

Finding the Ideal Base for Solo Exploration in Rome

Early Morning View from my Room at DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti

Choosing the right hotel in Rome as a solo woman traveler is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience. Prioritizing safety, location, and amenities ensures a comfortable stay while exploring the Eternal City. Opting for well-established hotels with reputable reviews and security measures provides peace of mind, particularly for solo female travelers. Look for properties with secure entrances, 24-hour front desk service, and surveillance cameras in common areas. Additionally, consider the hotel’s location in a safe and accessible neighborhood.

Location plays a significant role in maximizing your time and convenience while exploring Rome solo.

Centrally located hotels, like the DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti where I stayed, offer easy access to key attractions and public transportation hubs.

Photo Credit: DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti

Situated in the vibrant Monti neighborhood, this boutique hotel provides proximity to iconic landmarks such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Trevi Fountain, allowing for exploration on foot. The Monti district’s charming atmosphere, with cobblestone streets and cozy cafes, enhances the solo traveler’s experience, providing authenticity and cultural immersion.

Location plays a significant role in maximizing your time and convenience while exploring Rome solo.

In addition to safety and location, amenities contribute to a pleasant hotel experience. The DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti offers modern accommodations with essential amenities, including spacious guest rooms, complimentary Wi-Fi, and a rooftop terrace with panoramic views.

Photo Credit: DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti

As a solo woman traveler, I found the DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti to be the perfect base for exploring Rome independently. The hotel’s prime location, attentive service, and modern amenities provided a sense of comfort and security during my solo adventures. The attentive staff is happy to provide insider tips on navigating Rome solo and can arrange guided tours or transportation upon request. With the right hotel as your base, your solo adventure in Rome is sure to be an unforgettable experience.

“NOBODY CAN DISCOVER THE WORLD FOR SOMEBODY ELSE. ONLY WHEN WE DISCOVER IT FOR OURSELVES DOES IT BECOME COMMON GROUND AND A COMMON BOND AND WE CEASE TO BE ALONE.”
– WENDELL BERRY

Tips for Solo Dining and Enjoying Your Own Company

Dining solo while traveling can at times feel dispiriting, but it doesn’t have to be! Sure, there are moments when I craved company across the table, sharing stories of the day. However, there’s no rule dictating every dinner must be a solitary affair. Some evenings, takeout and calls to loved ones suffice, while others present exciting opportunities to explore local eateries. There’s a certain joy in dressing up just for yourself, mixing nights in with nights out, mirroring the ebb and flow of daily life back home.

Consider these tips for solo dining:

Opt for restaurants with bar seating—it’s a common practice for solo travelers. While it’s comfortable, part of the thrill of solo travel lies in pushing beyond comfort zones and engaging with locals. Dining at the bar fosters easy conversation, offering insights into the community from the bartender or fellow patrons.
Embrace conversation—it’s a chance to learn from locals or fellow travelers. Keep an open mind and strike up chats with those around you; you never know what tips or experiences you might glean.
Bring distractions—a charged phone, a book, or an iPad can be lifesavers during lulls in conversation. Use this time to plan your next adventure or simply enjoy a moment of relaxation. Ultimately, solo dining, like anything, improves with practice.

Perched on the eighth floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton Rome Monti, the Mùn Rooftop Cocktail Bar offered not only breathtaking views of the city’s skyline but also a delightful culinary experience. As I settled into a cozy seat overlooking Rome’s iconic landmarks, I was greeted with complimentary snacks a menu featuring an array of tempting offerings. The Pank Pork, a Pulled Pork Croquette Breaded in Panko, immediately caught my attention with its crispy exterior and savory filling, perfectly complemented by a tangy Barbeque Sauce. Accompanying this savory delight was a refreshing Cold Panzanella salad, featuring a medley of fresh vegetables and tangy dressing, offering a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.

As the evening progressed, I indulged in the quintessential Italian dessert, Tiramisu’ all’amaretto, a decadent treat that captured the essence of traditional Italian flavors. Each bite of the creamy mascarpone, soaked in coffee and amaretto, was a symphony of rich, indulgent flavors, leaving me thoroughly satisfied. I paired the meal with a glass of Prosecco and followed with a couple of glasses of Primitivo selected from the bar’s collection.

The dining experience at Mùn Rooftop Cocktail Bar was wonderful, seamlessly blending culinary excellence with panoramic views that epitomized Rome’s vibrant food scene, it offered a serene ambiance for a solo traveler, like me to enjoy local flavors while taking in the cityscape.

I think that embracing the opportunity to savor meals in your own company, enriching your travel experience one bite at a time.

“THE INNER JOURNEY OF TRAVEL IS INTENSIFIED BY SOLITUDE.”
– PAUL THEROUX

As my solo journey through Rome came to a close, I found myself filled with gratitude for the experiences gained and the memories made. While this may have been my first solo adventure, it certainly will not be my last. The independence and self-discovery cultivated during my time in Rome have left an indelible mark, fueling a desire to explore new destinations and embark on future solo adventures with confidence.

The journey of solo travel lays the foundation for future adventures, opening up the possibility of returning to beloved destinations with loved ones in tow. Armed with newfound knowledge and experiences, solo travelers become adept tour guides, eager to share their passion for exploration with significant others, friends, or family members. With each solo adventure, you will grow more resilient, more adventurous, and more eager to embrace the world with open arms.

Thank you for taking the time to read this article. Though this article is a bit lengthy, there’s an abundance of information to share regarding solo female travel and the myriad ways to savor Rome independently. As always, your questions and comments are greatly appreciated.