Navigating Abruzzo’s Wine Regions

In my previous article, I introduced the region of Abruzzo by delving into its rich winemaking heritage and diverse terroir. Now, it’s time to take a journey through Abruzzo’s wine regions and explore the esteemed DOC and DOCG designations that define the region’s landscape. I’ll share my experiences attending the “Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo” earlier this month, which offered insights into the latest vintages and trends emerging from this celebrated wine.

Exploring Abruzzo’s Wine Classifications

Abruzzo boasts four region-level denominations—Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC—each with its own distinct characteristics and appellations. These denominations have expanded to include four subzones, primarily based on the provinces of Abruzzo. These subzones, Colline Pescara, Colline Teramane, Terre di Chieti, and Terre Aquilane, highlight the diverse terroirs and microclimates within the region.

The introduction of Superiore and Riserva levels exclusively for subzone-labeled wines has elevated the quality and prestige of Abruzzo’s offerings. These designations, indicate higher minimum alcohol levels and longer aging requirements. While some changes in aging requirements and release dates were implemented, the most notable modifications occurred within the Abruzzo DOC denomination. Here, the minimum percentages of Trebbiano and Montepulciano were raised to 85%, effectively positioning these wines as direct competitors of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, despite not being able to name the variety on the label. Additionally, the introduction of a new Rosato wine with 85% Montepulciano mirrors the offerings of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC.

Abruzzo DOC’s decision to allow varietally labeled wines, including Cococciola, Malvasia, Montonico Bianco, Passerina, or Pecorino, further demonstrate their commitment to diversity. Wines labeled as “Passerina d’Abruzzo DOC” or similar give the impression of being from a separate denomination altogether, potentially increasing their market appeal. Though these varietal wines currently may not be produced in large quantities, their introduction suggests a strategic move towards establishing them as distinct denominations in the future.

A Closer Look at the Colline Teramane DOCG

The history of Colline Teramane, located in the province of Teramo in Abruzzo, is deeply intertwined with the region’s rich winemaking heritage. Dating back centuries, the area has been revered for its fertile soils, favorable microclimate, and ideal grape-growing conditions. Historians trace the origins of winemaking in Colline Teramane to ancient Roman times, where viticulture flourished under the influence of Roman colonization and trade routes. Throughout the Medieval and Renaissance periods, winemaking in the region continued to thrive, with local producers honing their craft and cultivating indigenous grape varieties. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century that Colline Teramane began to gain recognition for its exceptional Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines.

One of the most notable transformations in Colline Teramane has been the establishment of its own DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designation in 2003. This prestigious recognition underscores the exceptional quality and distinctiveness of the wines produced within its boundaries. As a DOCG, Colline Teramane adheres to stringent regulations governing grape cultivation, winemaking practices, and aging requirements, ensuring that only the wines bear its esteemed label.

From the Consorzio Tutela Vini Colline Teramane DOCG Website.

“Wine produced from the Montepulciano grape and Abruzzo’s only controlled and guaranteed designation of origin. The relevant area includes a wide range of coastal and inland hills in the province of Teramo, which reaches as far as the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga foothills to the centre-north. The Consorzio di Tutela is an organization whose purpose is to safeguard and improve the quality of this wine, and for this reason applies a strict production protocol that requires yield to be lower than ninety quintals per hectare, with no overhead training system to be used for new vine installations. Plant density must be no less than 3,300 per hectare, and vinification and bottling must take place in the production district. The wine may reach the market no sooner than one year for the standard version and three years for the Riserva.”

The Expressions of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is a wine often mistaken for its namesake, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, hailing from the renowned Tuscan region. While both wines share the name “Montepulciano,” their origins and grape varietals are distinctly different. In the 19th century, there was speculation that Sangiovese, the grape used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Montepulciano grapes might be related. However, subsequent research debunked this theory, revealing it to be merely a coincidence that both Tuscany and Abruzzo utilize the name “Montepulciano.” Interestingly, Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape may have derived its name from the famous Renaissance town, adding a layer of historical intrigue to its identity. Despite the shared name, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are distinct wines, each with its own unique legacy and flavor profile.

Photo courtesy of the Consorzio Colline Teramane

Montepulciano, a thick-skinned red grape, is predominantly cultivated in central Italy, notably in the Abruzzo region. Its cultivation extends beyond Italy’s borders, with plantings in diverse locales such as Molise, Marche, Lazio, and Puglia, as well as overseas in Australia, New Zealand, and select regions of the United States, including California and Texas. Famed for its resilient demeanor, abundant yields, and versatile qualities, the Montepulciano grape produces wines renowned for their deep hues and concentrated flavors. Despite its sturdy composition, the grape’s generous juice-to-skin ratio results in wines with balanced tannins, providing winemakers with the flexibility to employ diverse techniques such as prolonged maceration and oak maturation to enrich depth and framework.

Several wine styles are produced from Montepulciano grapes, that adhere to Italian wine DOC regulations. Prominent among these are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, renowned for its blend of at least 85% Montepulciano grapes and up to 15% Sangiovese, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG, requiring a minimum of 90% Montepulciano grapes. Additionally, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo designation offers a deeply hued rosé variant, providing a versatile option for wine enthusiasts.

Variations in aromas and taste may include hints of leather, tobacco, dried and fresh herbs such as oregano or thyme, with oak-aged expressions offering pronounced fruit notes alongside nuances of chocolate along with warm and peppery spices. Modern Montepulciano wines, especially premium Riserva renditions, showcase a contemporary evolution marked by deep color, rich and robust structure, and layers of flavor, underscoring the grape’s adaptability and enduring appeal in the world of winemaking. Montepulciano wines typically boast a moderate alcohol content ranging from 11.5% to 13.5% ABV.

Anteprima Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2024

A part of our press trip to Abruzzo included an invitation to the “Anteprima” preview event for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and Colline Teramane DOCG, dubbed the “Abruzzo Wine Experience,” which took place at Borgo Spoltino on March 1, 2024. Attendees to this distinguished event included journalists and writers from Italy and around the globe.

The event kicked off with Enrico Cerulli Irelli, president of the Colline Teramane Consortium, recognizing the achievements of the organization, now integrated into the larger Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines. Cerulli Irelli stressed that Colline Teramane represents more than a mere geographical indication for Montepulciano grapes; it embodies a landscape molded by the convergence of individuals, customs, the land and historical narratives, have all shaped viticulture and enriched the unique character of its wines.

Franco D’Eusanio, vice president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo also shared the following: The current trend is leaning toward seeking out wines that are more approachable and easier to drink, and this trend extends to Montepulciano DOC wines as well. With the evolving landscape, it becomes crucial to distinguish the offerings of different producers in a clear manner, enabling consumers to understand wines from this region vary significantly, even within the same denomination. The Abruzzo model exemplifies this concept, highlighting distinct and characterful terroirs where a grape like Montepulciano, in its various clones, showcases diverse expressions.

Our morning kicked off with an optional ‘blind tasting’ showcasing Colline Teramane DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, a fantastic opportunity I eagerly awaited. Prior to embarking on this journey to Abruzzo, my encounters with these wines had been limited, heightening my anticipation for the tasting session. Twenty-Seven Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG wines from different producers were sampled in the ‘blind tasting, twelve of them Riservas and the vintages ranged from the 2018 to the 2022.

The experience provided valuable insights without the influence of labels or preconceptions, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the essence of each wine. What impressed me the most was the wide range of styles showcased at the event, a testament to the innovative approach and steadfast commitment of Abruzzo’s winemaking community. From robust and bold expressions to graceful and sophisticated ones, there was a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo suitable for every taste and occasion.

Beyond the sensory exploration, there was a profound sense of appreciation in attending such a prestigious gathering and this experience left a lasting impression on my journey as a wine enthusiast and wine writer.

Following a brief lunch interlude, participants reconvened at the tasting tables for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Grand Tasting session, presenting a curated selection of 69 wines for sampling. The wines were categorized into two groups: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, showcasing vintages from 2020 to 2022, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, exclusively featuring 2020 vintages, both categories were sourced from different Zones and Subzones.

At each table, sommeliers were on hand to pour the requested wines from the list. Our group of English-speaking Americans and Canadians chose to be led through the tasting experience by our assigned sommelier. He skillfully offered insights into the producers and the distinct qualities of the wines he curated for our sampling, enhancing our overall appreciation of the selections.

During the tasting session, I began to draw comparisons between Montepulciano and two renowned varietals, Merlot and Chianti, both of which I have always appreciated. This exploration piqued my curiosity further regarding the distinct characteristics of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As I continued to delve into these wines, their unique traits became more apparent, providing insight into the region’s esteemed winemaking heritage and unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional quality wines.

Sampling a multitude of wines within a single day can pose a challenge in pinpointing favorites. Nevertheless, amidst the Grand Tasting, certain wines distinctly captured my attention and left a lasting impression.

These wines included the 2020 Tenuta De Melis Bardasce, 2020 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2020 Fontefico Cocca di Casa, 2022 Cantina Tollo Insetti Bio, and 2020 Barba i Vasari Old Wines. Each of these selections stood out for their distinctiveness, truly embodying the essence of the Abruzzo region.

In Closing….

The wines from the Abruzzo region serve as eloquent representatives, highlighting Abruzzo’s abundant viticultural heritage and its talent for crafting wines of exceptional quality and distinct character. Combining tradition, innovation, and unmatched hospitality, the event epitomizes the essence of Abruzzo winemaking, reaffirming the region’s reputation as a premier destination for wine enthusiasts worldwide.

As always, thanks for reading and please drop me a comment if you have any questions about Abruzzo or this series. Cheers!

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