Drink In Life

A Progressive Feast Through Roero

Posted on October 28, 2025 by drinkinlife

A Feast in Motion

The idea behind the progressive feast is simple yet deeply Roero. Move from village to village, tasting how each community interprets the same soil, the same season, in its own way. Meals become milestones and wine glasses mark the distance between places that feel both distinct and connected.

From Santa Vittoria d’Alba, where the view stretches over a patchwork of vines, to the hazelnut groves of Castellinaldo d’Alba and the cellars of Canale, this final chapter gathers every stop into one continuous table across the hills. What follows is a progressive feast through Roero. A journey of vineyards, kitchens, and artisans that reveals how deeply flavor and landscape intertwine in this corner of Piedmont.

These moments, shared, savored, unexpected, shaped my own path through the hills. My hope is that they help you trace your own way too, by letting Roero introduce itself bite by bite, glass by glass, until you find your own travel story somewhere along the way.

Santa Vittoria d’Alba & Pocapaglia

This progressive feast begins where mine did, in Santa Vittoria d’Alba, where I stayed at Hotel Castello di Santa Vittoria, set high above the Tanaro River. The road leading up curves through neat rows of vines that catch the light and stretch across the hills in every direction. At the top, the castle-turned-hotel looks out over the valley, its stone walls holding the warmth of the day.

From the balcony of my room, the view opens wide with a patchwork of vineyards, pale soil, and small villages scattered along the horizon. It’s the kind of view that slows you down. Standing there, it’s easy to see why so many travelers fall in love with this part of Piedmont before they ever lift a glass of wine.

A short drive from Santa Vittoria leads to Pocapaglia and to Cantina Tibaldi. Here, sisters Monica and Daniela Tibaldi carry forward a family vine-growing legacy that spans generations. In 2014, they began a new chapter by launching their own label, turning tradition into something distinctly their own. Their wines were my first true impression of Roero. Beautifully made and full of character, they felt like an amuse-bouche, a small but remarkable taste that reset my palate and prepared me for the discoveries ahead.

The Tibaldi sisters capture what makes this region distinctive: honesty, clarity, and deep connection between people and place. Their wines tell the story of modern Roero while remaining deeply connected to its past. Tasting them feels like an introduction to the journey ahead, a first glimpse of how each stop across the hills reveals another expression of the region.

Leaving Pocapaglia, the road turns toward Montà. This is where Roero begins to open itself in a different way. Here, Andar per Tartufi invites visitors to discover how deeply truffles shape life in this part of Piedmont.

This family run business welcomes guests to learn how these local treasure shape life in Montà. You can take part in a hands on guided truffle experience into the surrounding woods with a trained truffle dog. Listening to stories of early mornings in the woods, of training the dogs, and of the patience it takes to find that first truffle, I realized just how deeply this tradition is tied to the land. I was more than ready to roll up my sleeves and join in, but this time the forest would have to wait. Though I’ve already added it to the top of my list for next visit.

If you prefer to stay closer to the table, the family hosts tastings of truffle-based products, light lunches, and “trifulao snacks” that feature local cheeses, and artisanal salumi.

Visitors can also take part in seasonal activities, like a cooking class to roll out ribbons of tajarin topped with fresh truffle. There is also a honey and saffron workshop that highlights the family’s beekeeping and organic saffron harvest.

There is even an Agri Picnic that you can enjoy among the vines or beside a small stone ciabot. Each experience shows a different side of Roero’s generosity and the people who sustain it.

Even without heading into the forest myself, my meals with Andar per Tartufi gave me a clear sense of what makes this place special. They were the kind of meal that show how Roero reveals itself: through what it grows, what it gathers, and the people who continue to keep its traditions alive.

Castellinaldo d’Alba & Govone

The next leg of this journey takes us to Castellinaldo d’Alba. This is where Stefanino Morra and his family have carried forward a legacy that began in 1925, when the first vines were planted on these hillsides. Today, the estate remains a family endeavor with Stefanino working alongside his parents, his wife Edda, and his brother-in-law Gianni. His father, Gabriele tends the vineyards with biodynamic care, nurturing Arneis and Nebbiolo vines that seem to grow in rhythm with the land, while Stefano oversees the winemaking with a purposeful hand.

Their approach feels entirely in tune with Roero’s landscape, one that prizes authenticity over pretense. Spontaneous fermentation and minimal intervention in the cellar allow each wine to carry the distinct voice of the soil. The result is a collection of terroir-driven wines that strike a quiet balance between structure and grace. In the spirit of this progressive feast across Roero, their wines remind you that connection to the land is not just tasted, but felt.

Visiting Stefanino Morra was a reminder of why family-run wineries are the backbone of this region. It’s a stop worth making, not just for the wines, but for the way it captures what Roero does best, welcoming visitors into its story.

From Castellinaldo, the road unfurls toward Govone, where the countryside begins to shift. The lines of vines give way to the elegant silhouette of the Castello Reale di Govone, a baroque jewel perched high above the town.

For those who love a little history with their hillside views, a tour of Castello Reale di Govone offers a glimpse into another century.

The tour winds through the Royal Apartments, the delicate Chinese rooms, and the Grand Prior’s Hall, where 18th-century stucco and rare hand-painted wallpapers still whisper of their royal past.

Frescoes by Luigi Vacca brighten the ballroom, and even the staircases feel as though they were built for grand entrances rather than everyday steps. Outside, the English park stretches in manicured order, with terraces that frame the landscape like a living painting.

Wandering through royal corridors is bound to awaken more than curiosity, it can stir up an appetite too. Fortunately, the next stop offers just the thing to satisfy it.

At Le Scuderie del Castello di Govone, the history that surrounds the castle seems to spill naturally into the dining room. The restaurant captures the spirit of the Langhe and Roero with a cuisine that feels both rooted and forward-looking. Each dish reflects a conversation between tradition and creativity, echoing the region’s way of honoring the past while tasting toward the future.

Among the courses I enjoyed were a delicate savory tartlet with cauliflower panna cotta, roasted pearl eggplant topped with grilled tomato cream and a silky scamorza fondue, and the most exquisite potato ravioli folded around a fragrant vegetable ragù. Dessert arrived as a small work of art, a layered creation of vanilla, dark chocolate, and hazelnut so rich and harmonious it could have convinced me that Govone’s royal kitchens never closed.

As part of this progressive feast through Roero, the meal felt like a chapter written in flavor, bridging the elegance of the castle with the warmth and soul of the region itself.

Priocca & Guarene

The drive from Govone to Priocca winds through gentle hills striped with vines and hazelnut groves. It is the kind of landscape that slows conversation, inviting silence as you take in the continual beauty of Roero. In Priocca, you’ll discover Gabriele Cordero, a small, family-operated winery run by siblings Serena and Gabriele Cordero.

What began as a modest venture has grown from a wealth of experience gleaned in vineyards and cellars around the world. Their shared vision is grounded in biodiverse agriculture and a philosophy that respects the vineyard as a living ecosystem.

The result is an impressive range of wines, each crafted with obsessive attention to detail and a devotion to preserving the natural character of the fruit. Every bottle feels personal, a reflection of care and refined attention. As part of this progressive feast through Roero, the Cordero wines stand out as true gems of the region. They reflect both craftsmanship and sincerity, with flavors rooted in a deep understanding of the land.

Gabriele Cordero is absolutely worth visiting, for those seeking to discover how heart and skill can coexist so effortlessly in a single glass.

Not far away, the hills rise again toward Guarene, a small municipality in the province of Cuneo. This part of Roero is known for its deep agricultural roots and the way tradition and innovation work side by side. Among its regional treasures are the Madernassa pears that have long been cultivated here.

It is in this landscape that you’ll find Agricola Juppi, a family-run and educational farm, or fattoria didattica. Juppi grows a variety of fruits typical of the Langhe-Roero area, including pears and apples, with a focus on fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced produce. Customers can even order their fruit in boxes straight from the orchard. Founded in 2007 under the name Agrisistema s.s. agricola, the company builds on generations of family knowledge and respect for the land. As a fattoria didattica, Juppi welcomes visitors to join workshops and outdoor activities that show what daily life on a working farm really looks like.

As a gardener, walking through the orchard felt deeply familiar and still left me full of wonder. Then tasting the pears prepared in so many ways was a reminder of how flavor begins long before it reaches the table. Visits like this reveal the heart of Roero, where work and nature move together with purpose. If you go, schedule a visit or stop by to pick up some of Juppi’s seasonal fruit. Better yet, start your own progressive feast basket of local goods to enjoy along your journey.

When evening settles and you still find yourself near Guarene, it would be a mistake to leave without dining at Io e Luna. This restaurant captures the essence of Roero through a thoughtful and modern interpretation of Piemontese cuisine. The focus is on quality and seasonality, with ingredients gathered locally and many coming straight from their own garden.

During my meal, I started with a chilled red pepper soup accented with marinated shrimp, followed by ravioli del plin filled with gorgonzola and honeyed red onions. Dessert came as a small collection of pastries, each one so delicious that by the end, not a single crumb was left on the plate.

A well-curated wine cellar, takeaway pasticceria, and vegetarian or vegan offerings make Io e Luna an inviting choice for any traveler lingering past sunset. It’s the kind of place that turns an ordinary evening into the perfect conclusion to a day spent exploring the flavors of Roero.

You’ve officially made it halfway through this journey, which means it’s time for a quick check-in. How’s your wine glass? If it’s looking a bit low, take this as your cue to stretch, refill, and come back ready to keep exploring.

Canale

By the time you reach Canale on this tasting adventure, you begin to feel the true pulse of Roero. It seems fitting, since Canale is often called the heart of the region, not just for its geography but for the way everything here seems to intersect. Famous for both its vineyards and its fragrant peaches, Canale brings together the very best of the region, a gathering of all that makes Roero so distinctive and full of life.

From the center of Canale, it takes only a short drive to reach Cascina Chicco, one of Roero’s most respected family wineries. The story began in the 1950s when Ernesto “Chicu” Faccenda planted his first vines on these hills, setting down roots that would carry through generations.

Today the family continues his vision with the same devotion, balancing tradition with quiet innovation. The modern cellar, completed in 2014, lies mostly underground, a striking blend of architecture and function. Inside are aging rooms carved directly into the rock, hand-dug niches that cradle historical vintages.

During a visit to Cascina Chicco, you’ll taste wines that speak clearly of Roero’s character, from the crisp vitality of Arneis to the depth and nuance of Nebbiolo and the refined balance of their Barolo Ginestra Riserva. Each wine carries the imprint of careful stewardship, shaped by years of knowledge and an instinctive understanding of the land that sustains it.

As part of this continuing tasting through Roero, time spent at Cascina Chicco offers more than a chance to explore their wines. It provides a tangible connection to a story that began here more than seventy years ago.

Not far from Cascina Chicco is the perfect spot for lunch, Trames: Incontri tra Tappi e Piatti, where it feels as though you’re being welcomed into the heart of Canale itself. Tucked along one of the town’s quiet streets, the restaurant brings together wine and cuisine through a series of thoughtful pairings. It’s small but inviting, the kind of place that feels like a nonna has saved you the last chair in her kitchen. Maybe it was the conversation that followed the masterclass tasting with the Consorzio, or the local wines that kept the glasses full, but this turned out to be one of my favorite lunches of the trip.

It was also the most surprising. One single dish completely changed my mind about a garden vegetable I never grow and rarely eat, zucchini.

The meal began with a zucchini tart that caught me completely off guard. Layers of thinly sliced zucchini rested in a crisp pastry shell, surrounded by a rich onion jus and crowned with a light, tangy goat’s milk ice cream.

It was complex and refined, bursting with flavor yet deceptively simple, all of it wrapped up in a single bite that redefined how I’ll ever think about zucchini again.

Equally impressive was the baked rump steak with seasonal vegetables and the dessert, a vanilla madeleine with mascarpone cream and fresh berries. Trames: Incontri tra Tappi e Piatti is not a place you should stop; it’s one you must. Come hungry, because you won’t want to leave a single thing on your plate.

If you have time to linger in Canale before dinner, there’s no shortage of ways to fill the afternoon. You might wander through the historic center, where small shops tempt with hazelnut sweets and jars of Madernassa pear preserves, or stop by the Enoteca Regionale del Roero inside Palazzo Malabaila to sample wines from across the region. A drive through the surrounding countryside offers views that make you pull over just to take them in.

As evening settles over Roero, drive toward the hilltop estate of Villa Tiboldi, where vineyards sweep outward in every direction and the light softens over the valley. The restored 18th-century farmhouse glows against the landscape, a place that feels both timeless and welcoming. You may come just for dinner, as I did, but staying overnight will likely earn a spot on your list as it has for my next visit.

Villa Tiboldi is a ten-room wine resort and restaurant that balances rustic charm with understated sophistication. The property includes gardens, a pool, and a Michelin-recommended restaurant celebrated for its imaginative approach to regional cuisine and use of local, seasonal ingredients. Affiliated with the nearby Malvirà winery, it offers an experience where vineyard and table come together in perfect conversation.

That evening, we were joined by Massimo Damonte, President of the Consorzio and owner of Malvirà. Sharing the table with someone so deeply rooted in Roero and tasting his wines alongside the dishes they were meant to complement, added an easy sense of connection to the evening.

My dinner began with vitello tonnato, the tender veal draped in a silken tuna sauce, followed by agnolotti del plin stuffed with barbecued short ribs, a dish that balanced richness with a sense of restraint. The finale, a peach and blackberry entremet, was as striking as it was delicious. Each course found its counterpart in a Malvirà wine, that translated with elegance the dialogue between vineyard and kitchen.

No progressive feast through Roero would feel complete without a meal at Villa Tiboldi. The flavors here don’t just mirror the land, they speak its language, una lingua del cuore, the language of the heart.

Valpone

The road leads next to Valpone, a quiet village where the pace of life seems to honor the past. Here, Azienda Agricola Malabaila rises from the hills as both a working estate and a living piece of Roero’s history. It may be the only stop I’m sharing in this corner of the region, yet it is one that leaves a lasting impression.

The story of Malabaila stretches back to the 14th century, when the noble family of the same name, originally from Asti, began acquiring parcels of land “suitable for becoming a vineyard.” Their connection to Roero runs deep, preserved in handwritten ledgers that record wine deliveries to the House of Savoy during the 1500s and 1600s.

Today, the winery continues its legacy under Marchioness Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila, a direct descendant of the family, together with winemaker Valerio Alfredo Falletti. Their vision blends centuries of tradition with mindful innovation, guided by low-impact viticulture on sandy, fossil-rich soils. The result is a collection of wines that reflect both place and time.

What they’ve built here feels deeply personal, the kind of pride that comes from generations who never stopped believing in their land. Before leaving, I tucked a couple of their wines into my suitcase, knowing I’d want to share them later with my husband and a few wine friends back home. I’ve always believed that some wine stories taste even better once you’re on your second pour.

Monteu Roero & Vezza d’Alba

The last stretch of this route climbs toward Monteu Roero and Vezza d’Alba, tracing the jagged edges of le rocche. This is Roero in a more untamed form, where the land moves to its own cadence, more elemental and beautifully unrefined.

In Monteu Roero, a small village that feels suspended between forest and vineyard, begin the day with a visit to Stefano Occhetti, where the view alone reminds you why Roero was meant to be explored slowly.

Stefano Occhetti is the kind of winemaker who makes you believe in beginnings. After years working as a civil engineer, he returned to his roots in 2019, transforming his grandfather’s old garage into the heart of his winery. The vineyards he tends today are the same ones his grandfather planted, and in 2022, his wife Giulia joined him in the work that has become both craft and calling.

Their approach is honest and hands-on, guided by organic viticulture and a deep respect for the sandy, fossil-rich soils of Roero.

His wines carry a purity and subtle electricity that speak of this land. They are bright yet grounded, floral yet earthy, and unmistakably his. Stopping for a tasting and conversation here is essential; Stefano’s enthusiasm is contagious, the kind that reminds you why stories of wine are really stories of people.

With your palate awakened now, it’s time for something a little sweeter. A short drive brings you to Mieli Roche in nearby Vezza d’Alba, where the gentle hum of bees replaces the echo of the cellars.

The name Mieli Roche means “honey of the rocks,” and at this small apicoltura del Roero, the connection between land and flavor becomes literal. Here, you can taste honey drawn from acacia, chestnut, and millefiori blooms, each distinctly capturing a season of Roero in a spoonful. The Acacia is pale and floral, the taste of spring while the chestnut is darker and more complex, with a touch of bitterness that belongs to autumn. The millefiori, gathered from countless sun kissed wildflowers, carries the brightness of Roero’s summer hillsides.

Tasting them side by side feels like exploring Roero through its sweetness, a rare experience that reveals how deeply the landscape shapes flavor.

For anyone traversing a food pilgrimage through Roero, this stop becomes a sweet reminder that even honey can tell the story of the land, the people and the bees, who call it home.

Every journey deserves a serene ending, and in Roero, it comes with the sound of bells and the steady pace of a shepherd’s walk. In Santo Stefano Roero, the hills open wide again, as the vineyards give way to a distinctly different topography of meadows and woodland.

Here, in the tranquil hills of the countryside, Fratelli Pertusio, known as I Pastori del Roero, continue a tradition as vital to this region as winemaking itself. Their small farm is devoted to preserving the old cadence of rural life, tending flocks, crafting robiola, and keeping the bond between land and nourishment alive.

To enrich your flavor foray through Roero, I Pastori del Roero collaborates with local wineries and tour operators to create experiences that blend food, farming, and fun. You can wander the woodland paths alongside the goats, as you learn about ethical and sustainable farming.

There’s a sense of peace in that walk, but also laughter, goats are curious companions. The visit ends with a tasting of their cheeses, from fresh robiola still carrying the scent of milk to aged rounds with the flavor of grass and sunshine. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even try hand-milking or see cheesemaking in action.

This final visit brings everything full circle and into focus. Highlighting how curiosity, care, and flavor weave together here, creating experiences that belong uniquely to Roero.

The Last Course

On your final day, the drive at the end of your journey takes you through roads that feel surprisingly familiar now. The views appear different this time, more intimate, as if the landscape itself has let you in on a secret. The vineyards, orchards, and Rocche no longer feel like scenery. This time they feel like a living mappa dell’anima, a map of the soul that captures everything you’ve just experienced, tracing a permanent route across your wandering spirit.

I love how Roero reveals itself this way, not through grand gestures, but through moments stitched together like courses in a long, lingering meal. The people, the food, the wine, and the craftsmanship all belong to the same conversation, one that continues even after you’ve left. This progressive feast across the hills is more than a tasting itinerary; it’s a portrait of a place that feeds both appetite and understanding.

When I think back on this adventure, it isn’t one single glass or dish that I remember most, but the way it all connected. Those memories have become small postcards of Roero, ones I can revisit anytime I need to remember what it means to truly know a place. My hope is that after you visit Roero, you will feel the same.

Thank you for reading and for joining me on this excursion through Roero. If something here sparks a question or a thought of your own, please feel free to ask or share it. I always enjoy hearing what connects with others along the way.

My sincere gratitude to Sip and Savor, and to Gaia and Martina for their thoughtful coordination and care in arranging every part of the journey.

My deepest thanks as well to the Consorzio di Tutela del Roero, to President Massimo Damonte, and to Head of Marketing Francesca Iraldi for their gracious hospitality and for sharing the remarkable beauty and spirit of Roero in such memorable ways.

I can’t wait to return someday and experience more of Roero.

All images and content © copyrighted by Drink In Nature Photography and Drink In Life Blog

A Language Lesson in Roero Wines

Posted on October 16, 2025 by drinkinlife

A Postcard Diary from Roero: Part Two

In Italy, language and landscape share a secret vocabulary. Dialects shift from valley to valley, shaped by history, migration, and the intonation of daily life. The wines are much the same. In Roero, the grapes have their own lingo, learned from sand, sun and the patient tutelage of the seasons. The vines speak in voices as distinct as neighboring villages, each revealing the vernacular of this corner of Piedmont in their own fluent way.

If you listen closely, you might hear a little argument between the two local dialects, Arneis and Nebbiolo, each convinced it captures the truest accent of the land. Listening closely helps you appreciate that wine, like language, belongs to a specific place, and that every sip can become a small lesson in translation.

This article is a continuation of my Postcard Diary from Roero series, and part of the Sip & Savor: Pairing European Wines and Deli Meats study trip that I took last month. I’ll explore the language lesson of Roero wines, discovering how the region’s two most important varietals, Arneis and Nebbiolo, each speak with their own inflection of Roero’s terrior, and how the Consorzio Tutela del Roero give those voices a stage.

If you missed the first feature, begin here, An Invitation to Roero: Discovering Piedmont’s Hidden Heart, to trace how this journey through Roero unfolded.

Learning Roero’s Wine Language

Grasping the essence of the wines made in a place like Roero takes time. Each day I was there peeled back another layer: a conversation with a local producer, new vintages tasted, even how a meal revealed a side of the wines that I hadn’t met before. Together these experiences began to sketch a bigger portrait of the wines from Roero. By the third day, I had begun to understand the region a little more, but as in all things, there was still much to learn about both Roero’s people and its wines.

That morning brought a chance to listen more closely and dive a little deeper. The Consorzio Tutela del Roero had arranged a tasting for our group, a Masterclass devoted to Arneis and Nebbiolo. In many ways, it felt like a language class, an invitation to learn how these grapes speak and what they’re trying to say. A wine masterclass, especially within a region, is a guided tasting led by those who know the land from the inside out, a way to understand how geology, climate, and tradition find their way into every bottle.

Sessions like this helps me find my footing in a wine region. They tie together the individual moments of the trip, the growers, the vineyards, and the specific details into a clearer picture of why the wines taste unmistakably of their region. During the first couple of days, I had listened to producers share fragments of their stories and began to form a kind of phonology, the sounds and contrasts that define the language of these wines.

This class, however, was the point where I stopped collecting impressions and began to recognize Roero for what it is: a place with its own linguaggio del vino, un linguaggio che si comprende meglio attraverso il gusto e il tempo — a language best understood through taste and time.

So let me share a little of what I learned that morning, how Arneis and Nebbiolo each revealed their side of the conversation, and how, together, they tell the narrative of a place that often speaks in hushed tones, but with remarkable depth.

The Collective Voice of a Region

To understand how a region like Roero tells its story, it helps to first understand the storytellers themselves. Across Italy, a Consorzio exists to protect and promote the identity of its wines. Each one represents a specific and legally defined origin under the DOC or DOCG system, ensuring that what ends up in the glass remains inseparable from the land it was born from. Think of it as both guardian and narrator, part rulebook and part chronicler.

Beyond the regulations lies something far more personal: a shared belief that wine should mirror its territorio, a word Italians use to describe not only the physical land but the people and traditions bound to it. A Consorzio brings these elements together into a single voice. It unites growers, winemakers, and families who have spent lifetimes learning how to listen to their vines. Together they form a lexicon that defines a specific place.

In Roero, that collective voice belongs to the Consorzio Tutela del Roero.

Founded in 2014, the Consorzio di Tutela Roero is dedicated to protecting and celebrating the identity of the entire Roero territory, its vineyards, growers, and traditions. While Arneis and Nebbiolo remain its most emblematic varietals, the Consorzio also represents the diverse range of grapes cultivated across the hills of Roero, including Favorita, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Brachetto, as well as small plantings of international varieties that reflect the region’s curiosity and adaptability.

Through collaboration between vine growers and winemakers, the Consorzio promotes all wines under the Roero DOCG and DOC designations, Roero Arneis, Roero Rosso, as well as other expressions that capture the land’s versatility. Its initiatives include educational tastings, technical seminars, and events in major cities that highlight not only the wines themselves but also the landscape and culture that shape them, a kind of alchemy between place and people.

At its essence, the mission is to safeguard the rules of origin while keeping the region’s identity alive and visible. These wines, like the people who craft them, speak in a dialect all their own, and the Consorzio serves as their interpreter, translating Roero’s complexity into something that sets it apart among other wines from the surrounding area.

Inside the Masterclass

To bring that mission to life, the Consorzio di Tutela Roero turns to one of its most powerful tools, education. Tastings, seminars, and masterclasses are how it transforms its philosophy into experience, allowing visitors and professionals alike to understand Roero not as an idea, but as a living, breathing place.

During the Masterclass held at the Consorzio’s office in Canale, led by Sommelier Andrea Dani, the conversation around Roero began to take shape. Each glass poured revealed another small piece of how this landscape defines its wines. What had felt abstract over the past few days, sand, fossils, and riverbeds, suddenly became tangible. Those details had texture now, structure.

Roero’s grape-growing area is small, with approximately 1,100 hectares under vine. That modest scale can be both a strength and a challenge for the region, especially since it sits in the shadow of its famous neighbors, Barolo and Barbaresco. The Roero appellation, officially recognized as a DOCG in 2004, covers about 1,150 hectares of vineyards, the majority planted to Arneis and the rest to Nebbiolo. Together they produce around seven million bottles each year, with just over sixty percent exported beyond Italy. For a region of this size, that reach says a great deal about Roero’s growing reputation.

To truly appreciate the distinction of Roero’s terroir, you need more than tasting notes. You need to understand the soil science, weather patterns, altitude, and most importantly, the patience and craftwork of the winemaker.

As the class went on, the glasses in front of me began to look less like a tasting lineup and more like a map, each one tracing a small corner of the region with its own tone and inflection. Together, they seemed to sketch Roero’s topography.

I learned that while Nebbiolo is widespread throughout other renowned Alpine areas, Arneis is a native variety that perfectly represents this corner of Piedmont, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Image Credit-Map of Roero MGA- Consorzio tutela Roero

With each bottle, Andrea showcased a different winery within Roero’s patchwork of subzones, beginning with Arneis to illustrate the expression of the northern hills before shifting to Nebbiolo from the southern ridges. He highlighted how variations in sand, marl, and limestone shape both aroma and structure, proving that terroir along with technique, equally define the wines identity here.

By the end of the class, I was beginning to hear the ongoing dialogue between Arneis and Nebbiolo, and how each expresses this landscape in its own way. Because ultimately, understanding them is the key to understanding Roero itself.

Arneis: The Subtle Accent of Roero

Arneis is one of those grapes that reminds you how deeply history can sleep before someone decides to wake it. Historical records from the 15th century mention Reneysium or Ornesium in vineyards described as “moscatelli et renexij,” early evidence of its long-standing presence in Roero. For centuries it lived in the background, playing a supporting role beside Nebbiolo—planted to lure birds from the ripening red grapes or blended in small amounts to soften Nebbiolo’s structure.

By the mid-20th century, Arneis had nearly vanished, surviving only in scattered rows until a handful of producers began its revival. Alfredo Currado of Vietti was among the first, committing in 1967 to buy every Arneis grape local farmers could supply, sparking renewed planting across the hills. From that act of faith, the variety’s rehabilitation took root, earning DOC status in 1985 and DOCG recognition in 2004.

Today, Roero Arneis stands among Piedmont’s most respected white wines—proof that innovation and tradition can coexist in the same glass, and that sometimes a land’s truest voice is the one that had been silent the longest.

Long regarded as a local treasure and largely consumed within Piedmont, Arneis is now finding admirers far beyond Italy’s borders. The name, meaning “little rascal” in the Piemontese dialect, is a fitting description for a grape known for its temperament. Arneis can be difficult to manage in the vineyard, prone to mildew and quick to lose acidity if left too long on the vine. The most patient producers grow it, and their dedication is rewarded with wines of freshness and depth.

The grape thrives in Roero’s sandy and calcareous soils, where layers of marine fossils remind you that this land was once sea. These well-drained, mineral-rich soils limit vigor and push the vines to search deep for water, concentrating flavor and structure in the fruit. Warm days promote ripeness while cooler nights at higher elevations help preserve acidity and balance.

Once nearly forgotten, it has returned as one of Piedmont’s defining white varieties and a true reflection of the region’s resilience and craft.

The Masterclass made something very clear: Arneis is far more than a simple “quaffing white.” In the glass, it shows depth, texture, and a natural transparency to place.

Arneis can also be made into a Riserva version, aged for a minimum of sixteen months, and a Spumante style with at least 11.5% alcohol, signs of just how versatile and expressive this grape can be.

As we tasted through several examples side by side, the differences were striking. One wine from a steep, sandy slope carried a distinct, almost saline austerity; another from clay-rich soils felt silkier, more rounded.

At one point the wines stopped being sensory objects and became something else, geographic ambassadors, each telling the story of where it was grown.

Roero Arneis DOCG is also one of those wines that seems to make everything on the table taste a little livelier. I loved it with many of the European cured meats that we tasted during the trip, these kinds of easy aperitif often set the pace for the amazing meals that followed.

It also pairs beautifully with lighter dishes like delicate appetizers, white meats, and the fresh local cheeses found throughout Piedmont. There’s also a natural link to the region’s sweeter ingredients, like a drizzle of honey, a few slices of pear, or a handful of roasted hazelnuts. Together they tell the story of Roero in the simplest, most delicious way.

Roasted pearl eggplant with grilled tomato cream and scamorza cheese fondue at Ristorante Le Scuderie in Govone.

If you enjoy wines like Pinot Gris or Vermentino, you might find a familiar thread in Arneis, yet drinking it teaches you far more about Roero than comparison ever could. Like those grapes, Arneis has a smooth texture and a brightness that feels effortless, more about balance than intensity. Across Roero, styles vary, some lean crisp and lively, others rounder and more textured, but each holds the same subtle precision that makes the wine so easy to reach for in any season. I appreciate how Roero Arneis carries a kind of soft-spoken confidence, yet every sip speaks clearly of its birthplace.

Nebbiolo: The Red Soul of Roero

Nebbiolo is often introduced as the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, but in Roero it tells a more intimate tale. Its story in Piedmont runs deep. Nebbiolo appears in documents as early as the 13th century and was already known in Roero by the 14th, evolving through centuries from sweet and rustic to the refined dry reds we know today.

The name itself comes from nebbia, meaning fog, a nod to the mists that drift through these hills during harvest, smoothing the edges of both landscape and wine.

Nebbiolo thrives in the Roero hills northwest of Alba. From a distance, the slopes look serene, rows of vines tracing the light, sandy soils of the Tanaro’s left bank, but up close, it’s a constant negotiation between nature and fortitude. This side of the river lives a little in the shadow of the Alps’ snowy outline, a reminder that beauty here often comes with extremes.

About 1,180 hectares are planted across the area between Bra and Govone, edging toward the Asti border. The climate is famously dry, with hot summers and cold winters that test both vines and growers. July and August often climb above eighty degrees Fahrenheit, and rain is a luxury seldom granted. When it does arrive, it’s as likely to come in the form of a thunderstorm—or worse, hail. Yet these conditions, challenging as they are, shape Nebbiolo’s elegance. Here, the vines dig deep, the fruit stays fragrant, and the wines carry a clarity that feels unmistakably tied to this landscape.

Under DOCG rules, Roero Rosso must contain at least ninety-five percent Nebbiolo, though most producers use nothing else. The wine must age twenty months before release, including six in wood, while Riserva wines wait at least thirty-two. Historically, a whisper of Arneis might have found its way into the blend to lift perfume and soften edges, a practice now more nostalgic than necessary.

Winemaking styles vary widely. Many producers favor stainless steel and shorter macerations to highlight fruit and avoid over-extraction, giving their wines lift and immediacy. Others lean toward oak, embracing a firmer structure and a little wood spice for company.

Either way, Roero’s version of Nebbiolo speaks with its own accent, familiar in tone, but distinct enough to make you listen twice.

During the Nebbiolo tasting of the class, I began to grasp more fully the discipline required to craft this wine. The wines unfolded with gentler tannins, yet beneath that suppleness was a quiet determination to convey identity, a quality that feels distinctly Roero. What struck me most was how texture replaced power, how restraint emerged as its own form of confidence. Some glasses opened with generous fruit, others spoke in lower tones, inviting attention through nuance rather than weight. Each revealed a different interpretation of the same dialogue, winemakers articulating Roero’s landscape and temperament through their individual vision of Nebbiolo.

Nebbiolo from Roero feels instinctively suited to the table. Its balance and structure make it a graceful partner for food, complementing rather than competing.

It pairs beautifully with red meats, mushroom dishes, and aged cheeses, the kind of foods meant for long meals and good company.

Pasta with fresh shaved black truffles at Andar per Tartufi.

If you are drawn to wines like Sangiovese or Pinot Noir, you may find something familiar in Nebbiolo from Roero. All three share a kind of varietal honesty, medium in body, high in acidity, and shaped more by where they’re grown than by winemaking technique. Roero’s version stands out for its balance and approachability, with tannins that feel integrated rather than dominant and a brightness that keeps the wine lively even as it ages. I love that Roero Nebbiolo doesn’t announce itself with power, instead it earns attention through balance.

The Conversation Continues at Home

You don’t need a tasting classroom or vineyard view to begin understanding Roero. All it really takes is curiosity, a few good bottles, and a table set for discovery.

There’s a nice selection of Roero wines available on Wine.com (and for transparency, I receive no compensation for sharing this link; it’s simply a helpful starting point), making it easy to begin your own introduction. Order two bottles of Roero Arneis and two of Roero Nebbiolo, if possible, from different producers or vintages. To deepen the experience, include a Barolo or Barbaresco as a point of comparison. My recommendations, if they are still available, are in the image below.

Once your wines arrive, think of this as a small geography lesson told through taste. Start with Arneis and notice how it feels more than how it smells. Does it move lightly across the palate or linger? Then move to Nebbiolo, paying attention to the mouthfeel, is it grippy or velvety? Taste a Roero next to a Barolo or Barbaresco and let the contrasts reveal themselves. There’s no need to name aromas and flavors; let observation replace description.

As you sample them, consider pairing the wines with something that feels true to Piedmont: a simple risotto with Parmigiano, roasted hazelnuts, mushroom crostini, or handmade tajarin pasta with butter and sage.

As you sip them, ask yourself questions like:

Which of these wines feels most like your own personality, and why?
If you could share one of these wines with a friend, who would it be, and what would you want them to notice?
Which wine would you return to on a quiet evening and why?
What emotions, memories, or places do these wines bring to mind?
Which wine leaves you curious for another glass, and which one feels complete after just one?

Often when I taste a wine, especially for the first time, I ask myself where it belongs in my life. What music, book, or meal would feel at home beside this glass? How does it change as I spend time with it, does it open up, soften, or reveal something unexpected? And if I had to capture the feeling it leaves behind in just a few words, what would they be?

These are the quiet questions that tell me as much about my own palate as they do about the wine itself.

A side-by-side comparison of a region’s wines at home isn’t about training your palate; it’s about awakening your curiosity. With each pour, you’re not just learning about Roero, you’re joining in the conversation. The best discoveries often arrive between sips with the hope that you can say, “I think I finally understand what makes this place special.”

The Voices of Roero

When my time in Roero came to a close, I realized that to tell this region’s story, I needed to give its wines a voice of their own, a language that sets them apart from the broader chorus of Piedmont.

I hope I’ve managed to share a glimpse of that story with you; enough to spark your interest about Roero and the wines shaped by its hills, its people, and its unhurried way of life.

There’s more to come as I turn to the producers, restaurants, and artisans who carry this region’s way of life into every glass and every meal. The voices of Roero continue to speak, each adding their own chapter, and I hope you’ll return to listen as the story continues to unfold. Alla prossima—until next time.